Hi I started taking lessons on my 5-string banjo (which I enjoyed) but my work schedule is very chaotic and synchronizing my schedule with the instructors was difficult so I decided to just continue with some of the on-line lessons.
Some of the on-line stuff is very helpful! I've enjoyed it and have been making some progress. I have been using my 5-string banjo with a resonator. It is a good banjo (as far as I know) in that I think it sounds good, stays in tune and seems sturdy. But it is SO HEAVY. It has a flange and tone ring and I think that is supposed to be good, but boy is it heavy (I might just need to work out more, lol..).. But I find myself putting off playing it to practice when the thought of hoisting it and lugging it around just seems too tiring. Anyway, I decided to get my open back 5 string banjo to where it sounds decent (it needed some things tweeked, new strings and things like that) because it is so much lighter to just grab to practice on.
I must admit it is sounding pretty good! Except for the 2nd G string. It is tuned to G when I check the tuner, but it just has such a lifeless 'pfffft' kind of whispery, weak sound.
I was wondering if the position of the bridge could affect just one string? Or if the head is too tight/ too loose? Would that make just one string sound 'off'? I have replaced strings a couple of times now.... I was also wondering if having replaced the tail piece would have affected it. On my resonator banjo the 3rd string is running across the top of the tailpiece and the others run under. On the open back banjo all strings run under. It does not LOOK like the 3rd string should run across the top, but I'm new to all of this so I thought I would ask..
Thank you!
P.S. I cant visually see any of the strings rubbing on the frets, if that helps....
If strings are already new I would start with adjusting the bridge and see if that helps since it's the quickest thing to adjust. Steve Huber has some good videos on how to adjust. Start by playing a 12 fret harmonic on the high D string, and compare that to the sound of the fretted note. If the harmonic fretted note is flat move the bridge forward just a smidge.... If its sharp move the bridge back a tiny bit.
Repeat on the low D string. Some banjos the bridge can end up with a slight angle and that's ok. You will know that you have it right when the 12th fret harmonic gets really loud. The banjo really starts to come alive and sing when you find the right bridge placement.
If this isn't getting you the sound you want I would then try tightening the skin. I use a drum dial and aim for 92-93 at every tension screw. This will slightly affect the string action since it effectively raises the bridge a tiny bit. But if it hasn't been done for a while (or ever you might want to start there).
The last thing I would check is the string height itself. I find most banjos get a little better tone with a tiny bit higher string action than a guitar. The recommendation from Huber a tiny bit more than 4 to 5/32" measured from the top of the 22nd fret. I have experimented with 3/32 up to 5/32 and it took me a while to get used to the higher action, but I think its worth it. (at least with a good heavy-tone ring that it sounds like you have). I don't think it matters too much if you have a wooden tone ring as long as its playable.
PS.... Most tailpieces I have played on are strung like this... If that helps.
Edited by - camburgler on 08/14/2024 12:44:59
If it was on my bench I'd run it through a standard troubleshooting/setup process. Some of this stuff I know probably isn't the cause of your issue but setting up a banjo and more specifically troubleshooting issues requires consistency of process to ensure success.
Check neck relief. Fret the 3rd string at the 1st and 22nd frets, creating a straightline. Ensure action is between 1/64 and 1/32 above the 7th fret. If your banjo has no truss rod, if you have no action issues, or if you're afraid of touching the truss rod, this step may not be necessary.
Check head tension. I use a drum dial for this. You don't have to but it helps. The head should be tightened to a "tap tune somewhere around G#. I prefer higher than that. It affects tone, and it's preference, but regardless of tension it must be consistent across every hook. (If I had to guess, this is your issue)
Check the coordinator rods. On the neck end, make them tight. Not overtight, but more than finger tight and there should be a good neck-pot connection. This connection is very important as it's how vibrations (aka sound/tone) move from the pot to the neck. On the tailpiece end, they should be pretty much loose, just finger tight enough to make them stay on and not rattle.
Set the bridge. The bridge should be in a position that makes the 12th point equidistant (halfway between) from the bridge and the nut. You may need to slightly angle the bridge relative to the strings to get good intonation on the 4th string. You may want to try different bridges, specifically try to find a very lightweight (2 grams) bridge. (If you're using a generic bridge, replacing your bridge with a high quality bridge will improve tone)
We don't know what type of tailpiece you have. If it's adjustable, try adjusting the tailpiece up or down to vary the bridge down pressure. I start as tight as I can and back off until the tone falls out. If it's not adjustable, consider replacing it with something that is. Give us a picture of how it's currently strung, and we'll tell you if it's correct.
One other thing to check that often robs tone from an otherwise good banjo: A sloppy tension hoop. If possible, make sure your tension hoop is not rubbing up against your neck/fretboard, and especially make sure your neck/fretboard is not using the tension hoop as any type of "structural connection". If you're brave enough you can sand off some of your fretboard to create a gap.
Edited by - KCJones on 08/14/2024 12:54:22
You describe the sound as being lifeless, not out of tune. Check the slots in the nut and bridge. One of the slots may be too tight. That could cause a string to sound dead, especially the bridge. A little work with a torch tip cleaner will open the slot. Torch tip cleaners are available at hardware stores, Home Depot, Lowe's, and Harbor Freight.
You mentioned the second G string. I assume that's the third string? A loose head could affect it but, in my experience, a dead string is usually caused by a tight slot.
Oh my goodness, that is a LOT to digest.... But I REALLY appreciate all of the information from everybody and I actually think I have a good idea what might be wrong from reading these replies. I love learning things like this, and especially love it when things start to come together and I can fix things without taking it to the music shop.
Im going to start troubleshooting and will post an update with if/when/what fixes it..
Thank you!
First thing, make sure the tailpiece is strung correctly.
Also check that the head is tight enough. If it's loose, the bridge will sag most in the middle (at the 3rd string).
What sort of strings are you using? On a banjo, you really need to check the actual diameter of each string-- "light" vs. "medium" is virtually meaningless. A lot of the top bluegrass pickers like a set with a 3rd string that is (for me) way too light in relation to the others. The set I'd try first (on pretty much any banjo that's made to take wire strings) is GHS PF150. It's labeled "light", but is more what I think of as right in between light and medium, and has what feels to me like a well-balanced tension among the strings.
Edited by - Dan Gellert on 08/15/2024 10:25:25
What KC Jones said is worth doing. You may find the issue to be related to head tension. If all else fails try another bridge.
