I have a Weymann Orchestra Tenor Style 1 with a crack in the heel where the two screws fasten for the neck adjuster. The crack is mostly in the ebony heel cap but there is a very tiny crack also deeper into the heel within the sandwiched stripe between the two pieces of the neck. What are your suggestions on how I can fix this?
Here's a breakdown of the images:
Image #1 - This just gives you context on where on the heel I'm talking about. Crack #1 is clearly in the cap, crack #2 is barely visible.
Image #2 - Close-up of image #1, crack #2 is easier to see. Note that the two cracks don't appear to connect.
Image #3 - Bottom view of the heel, you can see crack #1 is along the screw holes.
Image #4 - Just showing a better image showing that the neck has a sandwiched stripe going down the neck.
I would contact Richie Dotson and really consider having him make the repairs. That’s what he does for a living. ??
I don’t think I’d sweat those. The heel cap is mostly decorative but you could easily replace it. About the only thing you could do for the crack in the heel is work some glue into it. It really kind of needs to be worse to be able to justify repairing.
Of course I’m just looking at pics on the internet.
I have a banjo that has a longitudinal crack in the neck about 4” long at the seventh fret.
Has not gotten worse in 20 years.
Run some cyanoacrylate (Crazy glue) down the crack and use clamps (with protection) on the sides to squeeze the heel tight. Once it dries, take some ebony dust and rub it in the heel crack and run some more cyanoacrylate, down the crack again, let it dry and repeat until it is level. Then you can use a glass slide (for microscopes) to scrape the glue on the heel level. Use tape on either side of the glass slide (with 1/8" of the glass uncovered) Once level, a couple applications of French polish and it will look perfect.
Edited by - staceyz on 08/03/2024 13:27:19
Thanks Gallaher, I was considering glueing both cracks using a hypodermic needle and limiting strings gauge to extra light.
Crack #2 is hardly visible without magnification so I'm not going to get a lot of penetration unless I'm using a glue that can wick into that space. Do you think it's OK to use thin CA glue for crack #2?
I think CA glue might make a mess on the ebony cap and that crack is easier to access. Do you have a recommendation for a different glue on that one?
quote:
Originally posted by staceyzRun some cyanoacrylate (Crazy glue) down the crack and use clamps (with protection) on the sides to squeeze the heel tight. Once it dries, take some ebony dust and rub it in the heel crack and run some more cyanoacrylate, down the crack again, let it dry and repeat until it is level. Then you can use a glass slide (for microscopes) to scrape the glue on the heel level. Use tape on either side of the glass slide (with 1/8" of the glass uncovered) Once level, a couple applications of French polish and it will look perfect.
Thanks for your suggestion staceyz, do you prefer regular crazy glue or the thinner variety, does it matter? I've seen some that are slower drying than others as well. I might be over thinking it but I could look for a slow drying thin cyanoacrylate glue with a fine tip applicator.
I use the thinner stuff, so it will run down way into the crack... Let it dry overnight... Use the micro tips for application..
I use "Hot Stuff" . I'm sure you can find it locally, here is my source...
leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools...hot-stuff
I'm really curious about the ebony(?) strip not being dead straight in the exposed end of the heel. Look at that curve. Was it some flexible veneer? Even if that's the case, why weren't the two halves of the neck perfectly flat where they met the center strip?
Probably moisture damage at some point, and it also may be ebonized maple, which tended to go all over the place with cracks..
But how did it have anywhere to go if sandwiched in between two solid pieces that were supposedly flat and true on the gluing surfaces?
quote:
Originally posted by Old HickoryI'm really curious about the ebony(?) strip not being dead straight in the exposed end of the heel. Look at that curve. Was it some flexible veneer? Even if that's the case, why weren't the two halves of the neck perfectly flat where they met the center strip?
Old Hickory, the ebony strip in image #2 doesn't look straight because of the angle where the carving of the heel changes direction to meet the dowel stick.
Image #1 shows this a little clearer and you can see that it's straight from the cap to a 90 degree angle, then straight again to the dowel stick.
Old Hickory, here's a little bit better picture that shows the angle I'm talking about. It's hard to see but there's about a 1/4" or so of heel that juts out to meet the dowel stick.
quote:
Originally posted by Ty Presleyhere's a little bit better picture that shows the angle I'm talking about. It's hard to see but there's about a 1/4" or so of heel that juts out to meet the dowel stick.
Well call me dumb and send me to bed.
Thanks for explaining.
Ha, no problem! I was looking at it funny too after you pointed it out. For a moment I thought I might have bigger problems than the crack.
Super glues have become the duct tape/ silicon caulk of instrument repairs.
Like duct tape, you never know how long or how well it will hold. Its structural strength is rather poor.
Lke silicon caulk, once it's in there, it's impossible to get all of it out of there and get anything else to stick.
It is totally unsuitable for structural repairs in wood.
The best glue for the crack in the heel is hot hide glue, mixed a little on the thin side. If you're not experienced with it, use Titebond Original, or Old Brown Glue [which is a user friendly, slow set hide glue], heated and possibly thinned just a little bit. I would not use any other glues for the job. Rub the glue into the crack, squeezing and releasing the outside of the heel as you're rubbing to help it to penetrate. Then clamp shut, using two padded cauls to protect the heel from damage. You can use leather, cork, or even cardboard for the padding.
The crack in the heel cap is only a cosmetic problem. Me, I might leave it alone, but if you wish to repair it, here's where you can use super glue. Run a line of glue into the crack, sprinkle some ebony dust over it, and let dry for 15 minutes. Level the surface with a file, sanding block, or cabinet scraper. Repeat if necessary. Sand the tool marks out of it, apply some black stain, let dry overnight, then overcoat with shellac, lacquer, varnish, or Tru-oil.
An easier alternative to super glue and wood dust is black wood filler from the hardware store. You'll have to let it dry for a day and repeat at least once, but it's easier to level, and if it gets anywhere you don't want it, you can wipe it off before it causes any damage. For a do-it-yourself, it's probably the better choice for repairing the heel cap.
30 years of experience have taught me that the only uses for super glue in my shop are for installing inlays, shimming nuts, and filling fingerboard divots.
Edited by - rcc56 on 08/04/2024 19:48:21
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