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Feb 20, 2024 - 3:26:42 PM
2515 posts since 2/7/2008

I’m working toward my first bound fingerboard.

In short, do you make the bound board just a shade narrower than the neck so the neck can be sanded to be flush with the fingerboard?

I’d imagine that ideally, the neck and fingerboard would be exactly identical, but I’m not sure my skill set is at that point.

Feb 20, 2024 - 4:38:27 PM

5649 posts since 5/29/2011

I make the fingerboard a smidgen narrower than the neck so that the binding extends over the edge and gets sanded flush.
I hope that made sense.

Edited by - Culloden on 02/20/2024 16:40:06

Feb 20, 2024 - 4:43:13 PM
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2901 posts since 9/18/2010

I subtract the thickness (X2) of the binding from the standard (or custom) width of the fingerboard and make that the width of the fingerboard. When the binding is installed the fingerboard then is back to standard (or custom) width.
( I also clip the fret tangs so that the frets extend across the whole playing surface (no binding nubs on the fret ends!).)

Feb 20, 2024 - 5:26:47 PM



5062 posts since 2/20/2016
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And you can use locating pins to mount your fingerboard to the neck so it doesn't move when you clamp them together. You can put them through a couple of the fret slots, or through a couple of inlay cavities.

The last time I replaced a fingerboard, I fitted a couple of the inlays without glue, then pulled the inlays, dry-clamped the board where I wanted it, and drilled the holes for the pins. When I was ready to glue, I pinned and glued the board, then pulled the pins and re-installed the inlays after the glue had set.

Feb 20, 2024 - 6:58:24 PM

2515 posts since 2/7/2008

I think I might be beginning to understand.

Do I correctly imagine that the fingerboard (including binding) is slightly tapered so it continues the profile of the neck all the way to the surface of the fingerboard?

Feb 20, 2024 - 7:30:10 PM

2901 posts since 9/18/2010

Originally posted by Quickstep192

Do I correctly imagine that the fingerboard (including binding) is slightly tapered so it continues the profile of the neck all the way to the surface of the fingerboard?

If you mean what I think you mean, then yes, the curve of the neck continues into the binding. If you view the neck from directly behind you should be able to see just a bit of the fingerboard or binding to each side.

Edited by - sunburst on 02/20/2024 19:31:03

Feb 20, 2024 - 7:52:49 PM

5407 posts since 11/20/2004

Square edged fingerboards are fine unless using extra wide binding or adding purfling below the binding. Binding is usually .060 , enough to taper by scraping.

Feb 21, 2024 - 3:36:39 AM
Players Union Member



17487 posts since 8/30/2006

I learned cabinet scrapers are very useful, easy to learn to sharpen. I use them on the lathe, too.

Feb 21, 2024 - 10:05:45 AM



12352 posts since 2/7/2008

I glue the binding to the fretboard, install frets. Attach FB to rough sawn neck, rout the neck to the binding with a pattern bit in a router table, then carve the neck. They fit perfect that way.

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