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Good luck Tom , pot metal is brittle stuff , but gradual pressure may work ?
Keep us informed please . I no cracks appear , maybe some heat would settle the metal after bending w/o attaching the additional flanges , or , maybe not ?
Good to see some homespun attempts !
Edited by - heavy5 on 10/02/2023 04:59:35
quote:
Originally posted by heavy5Good luck Tom , pot metal is brittle stuff , but gradual pressure may work ?
Keep us informed please . If no cracks appear , maybe some heat would settle the metal after bending w/o attaching the additional flanges , or , maybe not ?
Good to see some homespun attempts !
it's on and holding plenty good -around 90 on the drum measure --b note on the arch top head --it may have pulled slightly but not sure--After I snugged it back up and had it sitting even I went round and round with my neary torque tool at the 3rd graduation kept going several times till they all'caught up good"then went up to the 5 th graduation and repeated--I ended up on the 9th graduation--but that setting is not a go to setting for all banjos--the reason i use the tool is to keep a watch on the task at hand
The flange -- was turned to the point where the bead was digging into the rim-now there is a slight clearance and 277-1 and I am happy
just fine still sittin on the b note-i'''ll check it with the drum dial later today when i get to the music room- but it feels good and tight--I never got it back to factory condition flat--but it is plenty flat --like i said the bead was digging in when it got removed -but now there is a hair line space between the bead and rim-- a friend took a fall carrying it once and one area was a bit higher-I didn't get too picky with the pull--I probably could have changed the bolts to8-32 after it straightened some--and got a bit more--but I did'nt want to kill the goose laying golden age--it looks good and acceptable--
when tightening the head --first I got it sitting level
then
like I said -I did not do--- the earl suggested skipping around similar to torquing a head on an engine -but instead went very lightly around with a neary torque tool round and round consecutive --slowly slowly --increasing the graduations--the thought being--not stressing any one point all by it's lone some
when we were coming of age it was -tighten heads--sand bridges--get lighter heads--on and on --of course I actually have calmed down on seeking fortune and fame now ha ha
Edited by - Tractor1 on 10/06/2023 07:06:14
This may not be the place for it but I have for many yrs been duplicating a neck reset on quality guitars , some what akin to your flange straightening .
First , u need a good case w/ one neck support just behind the heel & ALL string pressure released to 0 & as well the truss rod if applicable .
Pad the guitar top from the rear of the bridge to the rear most end of the top w/ 1/2 to 1" soft foam . do the same under the bottom from the heel area to 4 -5 "towards the rear so u are raising that area & lowering the top rear when closing the case .
Then add stiffer foam to the top of the peg head so when closing the case u are giving down ward pressure on the peg head . Gently close & latch the case unless u have too much foam somewhere & it won't close .
There is considerable COMMON SENSE required as to how much foam to put where , especially on the peghead as this process requires patience & time to work --but it does work !
Just don't overdo the pressure & , don't expect results in a couple of weeks --- it takes time !
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