#1 can cause a buzz, because the string is vibrating throughout the slot.

#2 can cause a buzz, because given the stiffness of a string, if it is touching only the tailpiece end of the slot, then the string bends and is above the slot where it exits toward the nut.

#3 is the desired geometry, typically with the slot slanted down toward the tailpiece side so that the bearing surface for the string is not infinitely small on one edge of the nut slot.

Most likely the conditions was #1, not sufficient down pressure on the string to seat it firmly in the slot, so the string was vibrating within the slot.

I once had a buzz that after some hair-pulling I finally tracked down to the bridge. Specifically, the center foot of a bridge with three feet was only making intermittent contact with the head. (Which is why the Deering "smile" bridge exists, essentially a longer center foot to maintain contact with the head when the outer feet create a slightly concave depression in the head...)

In my case I filed down the center foot of the bridge completely, leaving solid contact with the two outer feet on the head. Result: buzz gone.

This may or may not be your issue. However, the fact that you increased tension across the bridge by means of adjusting the tailpiece, suggests that you may have eliminated/reduced the buzz by pulling the bridge into firmer contact with the head.

Buzzes are aggravating and can have many sources. Testing with other bridges may be a way to determine if your issue is related to the bridge, or something else entirely, such as the nut.

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Originally posted by Alex Z

#1 can cause a buzz, because the string is vibrating throughout the slot.

#2 can cause a buzz, because given the stiffness of a string, if it is touching only the tailpiece end of the slot, then the string bends and is above the slot where it exits toward the nut.

#3 is the desired geometry, typically with the slot slanted down toward the tailpiece side so that the bearing surface for the string is not infinitely small on one edge of the nut slot.

Most likely the conditions was #1, not sufficient down pressure on the string to seat it firmly in the slot, so the string was vibrating within the slot.

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It was indeed eliminated with #1, it put my tailpiece height at about 1/4, which I read here, is a bit low, but it works. Another factoid is that the buzz started just after I had cranked the head tension up from 87-88 to 91. That could have been coincidence.

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Originally posted by Silver_Falls

I once had a buzz that after some hair-pulling I finally tracked down to the bridge. Specifically, the center foot of a bridge with three feet was only making intermittent contact with the head. (Which is why the Deering "smile" bridge exists, essentially a longer center foot to maintain contact with the head when the outer feet create a slightly concave depression in the head...)

In my case I filed down the center foot of the bridge completely, leaving solid contact with the two outer feet on the head. Result: buzz gone.

This may or may not be your issue. However, the fact that you increased tension across the bridge by means of adjusting the tailpiece, suggests that you may have eliminated/reduced the buzz by pulling the bridge into firmer contact with the head.

Buzzes are aggravating and can have many sources. Testing with other bridges may be a way to determine if your issue is related to the bridge, or something else entirely, such as the nut.

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I can exactly picture what you are saying, and it ties in with me having recently increased the head tension.

there are ways to examine each slot string relation -to see the bearing area etc.interesting question

I have always slanted the notches back towards the tailpiece so that the string bears on the front edge.  Also, my bridges are tapered so that the saddles are narrow where the strings cross.

Ken answered your question, it is number 3. Lot of things to think about and it is "just a banjo!" banjered

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Originally posted by Tractor1

there are ways to examine each slot string relation -to see the bearing area etc.interesting question

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Is there a resource you can point me to where I can read about that. Also, I'm curious if there is "banjo luthiers manual' 

concerning how the string bears in the slot --pretty sure that is what I said in that e mail last week-,-if not I apologize for leading you wrong--I am not a pro--Just build and trouble shoot my own--

quote:

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Originally posted by Tractor1

concerning how the string bears in the slot --pretty sure that is what I said in that e mail last week-,-if not I apologize for leading you wrong--I am not a pro--Just build and trouble shoot my own--

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Absolutely you did NOT lead me wrong, but when somebody says 'bridge' my eyes glass over!

I cut the notches in my bridges with StewMac slotting saws.
These saws have half-round edges that leave a half-round bottom in each notch for a very stable foundation for each string.
I cut these notches at an angle from the leading edge of the bridge to the front end of the tailpiece.
I do this to ensure the strings contact the neck side of the bridge,first.

OK this is the way I do it -for easy explanation --it might sound like I am giving orders and saying I know the right way--I am not saying  it is correct

having a perfect fitting string all thru the slot would be the most solid--but I never could achieve that--From watching Bill Sullivan fix a nut buzz with a plain 3 cornered file--I veered away from trying for a complete engagement--not only does the string angle down --it usually angles towards the center--this hap hazard engagement brings on the buzz --you can get your banjo under good light with a magnifying glass -leave it tuned up --you can loosen just one for the next step -but I don't--Pull a string straight up out of the slot--it will be shiny where it is bearing--I only want them shiny at the front part of the bridge-I have special slot files I use some ---but I have some needle files I use a lot for this--I file away where I don't want it hitting--when you put the string back in--and up to tension--still under light -- right at the bridge--push it sideways and up and down --it will bend where it engages--
As stated I am not a pro nor proclaimed expert--and there are others here that I respect their work greatly and they are welcome to lead us the correct way --for sure

A "perfect fitting" notch isn't tight to the string.
I use a .024" SM slotting saw for .020" - .022" strings
.013" saw for .010" - .012" strings.
The radius of the slot being slightly larger that the string ensures that there is no pinching of the strings' sides.(A tone robber).
I always choose a saw that's .002- .004 wider.

please don't quote--please please ignore

quote:

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Originally posted by steve davis

A "perfect fitting" notch isn't tight to the string.
I use a .024" SM slotting saw for .020" - .022" strings
.013" saw for .010" - .012" strings.
The radius of the slot being slightly larger that the string ensures that there is no pinching of the strings' sides.(A tone robber).
I always choose a saw that's .002- .004 wider.

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I also have a set of handy Stewmac nut slotting files and agree with Steve; The filed slots should be just a titch wider than the string gauge which is especially important with a wound string. If the filed slot is too tight a wound string could bind, which in turn usually makes a mess of the windings resulting in a damaged string. 
When filing a nut, the slots should be at their highest point at the side of the nut touching the fingerboard and slope away towards the peghead and tuning pegs. Likewise bridge slots can be filed with the highest point towards the fingerboard and sloping very slightly towards the tailpiece. 

for the record--I use nut files in slotting bridges---and slot them towards their  dying destination--then I study and carve on them

Good point about the nut,Mike.That's how to get the frets to make sense.

The StewMac saws are wonderful for nut slots.They are so precise and work well in bone or shell.
My set is 15 years old.I bought a new .013" a couple years ago just to get that new bite,but the old one still cuts a nice .013" slot and is better for "dressing" an old slot.

I change bridges back and forth to fit the mood of the banjo--

I use wrapped string pieces as a rasp sometimes =

quote:

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Originally posted by Tractor1

I change bridges back and forth to fit the mood of the banjo--

I use wrapped string pieces as a rasp sometimes =

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I use wrapped string pieces to finish off the bridge slots for the really thick gauges on my bass banjos. They work well if you don't have the specific sized nut file, just lean it down more on the back of the bridge side to keep an angle over the top of the bridge. 

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Originally posted by gcpicken

quote:

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Originally posted by Tractor1

there are ways to examine each slot string relation -to see the bearing area etc.interesting question

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Is there a resource you can point me to where I can read about that. Also, I'm curious if there is "banjo luthiers manual' 

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Most of us graybeards learned the basics from Pete Seeger's "How to Play the 5 string Banjo", now in its 3rd edition—he probably tells how to set up a bridge.

As for a "banjo luthier's manual",  you won't get any better than this forum—plenty of fresh ideas.

I started writing one in 2012, but everything I was sure I knew about building banjos has evolved over the years and my first drafts are obsolete (to me)—there's so much folklore and nonsensical conventional wisdom out there that no longer warrants being included in a serious book and I would have included it back then.  If I live long enough I'll write it when I retire from the building business, and certainly various ways to make bridges and the notches thereon would be included.

Most of us graybeards learned the basics from Pete Seeger's "How to Play the 5 string Banjo", now in its 3rd edition—he probably tells how to set up a bridge.

As for a "banjo luthier's manual",  you won't get any better than this forum—plenty of fresh ideas.

I started writing one in 2012, but everything I was sure I knew about building banjos has evolved over the years and my first drafts are obsolete (to me)—there's so much folklore and nonsensical conventional wisdom out there that no longer warrants being included in a serious book and I would have included it back then.  If I live long enough I'll write it when I retire from the building business, and certainly various ways to make bridges and the notches thereon would be included.

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I would buy a copy of your book! Maybe even one or two more to give as gifts!

Perhaps including a chapter or two on folklore and conventional wisdom, refuted by facts?  

quote:

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Originally posted by AGACNP

Most of us graybeards learned the basics from Pete Seeger's "How to Play the 5 string Banjo", now in its 3rd edition—he probably tells how to set up a bridge.

As for a "banjo luthier's manual",  you won't get any better than this forum—plenty of fresh ideas.

I started writing one in 2012, but everything I was sure I knew about building banjos has evolved over the years and my first drafts are obsolete (to me)—there's so much folklore and nonsensical conventional wisdom out there that no longer warrants being included in a serious book and I would have included it back then.  If I live long enough I'll write it when I retire from the building business, and certainly various ways to make bridges and the notches thereon would be included.

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I would buy a copy of your book! Maybe even one or two more to give as gifts!

Perhaps including a chapter or two on folklore and conventional wisdom, refuted by facts?  

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Thanks!  Your chapter is a great idea—in a form like the end notes in Ervin Somogyi's book about guitar building.

there are some expert refruters chomping at the bit to help ha ha --banjo newsletters were a mainstay for me in pre net days--
There is that one Roger Siminoff book how to build one -which I have used some-- he also did regular columns in magazines ---
seems there may be a book or 2 on set-up --
hard to beat visiting with a friendly repair man--

quote:

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Originally posted by gcpicken

Is there a resource you can point me to where I can read about that. Also, I'm curious if there is "banjo luthiers manual' 

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Greg, 

Check out frets.com

 http://frets.com/FretsPages/pagelist.html

There is enough good information here to keep you busy for a long time. Many of the questions you may have are addressed here as well. Much of the information is applicable to various fretted instruments, but there is Banjo specific information as well. 
 

Mike