I recently sent out a very interesting banjo.
It’s a 2-way banjo—you can play it with a resonator, or openback, as the resonator and flange are an easily removable unit.
One thing that’s unusual is that it’s made from chestnut oak quercus prinus, AKA rock oak and tanbark oak, and is made in the Arts & Crafts style of Gustav Stickley and others of that era, where oak was the primary wood used.
In keeping with the style, I used no grain filler and allowed the texture of the oak to come through. The finish is French polish on the rim and neck, and Shellac friction polish on the resonator.
Here you see a close-up of the peghead and some of the neck. The peghead veneer is a bookmatch crotch piece from the same part of the board as the neck and resonator, but no stain.
All the oak, including the rim laminations are from a chestnut oak log that had been underwater in a creek for a while–not that that has any big significance, but it took a few years to season it enough to make necks and resonator skins. This entire banjo is made from the same 22-foot log of which you see a piece from the upper end. The bark of chestnut oak is very distinctive and was used for tanning hides in the old days. It's a very heavy wood, weighing 47# cu/ft
Here’s a picture of the pot in openback mode. The rim is three-ply chestnut oak, a dream to steam bend. there is a very light patina on the brass. Also, it has a TuBaTone tone ring, which is not patinated.
and a detail of the resonator. The binding is walnut.
This one has a brass armrest and you can tighten the head without having to remove it—It’s attached by two longer tension nuts—you can see how it works. The tailpiece works with either loop-end, or ball-end strings
I have posted sound files of other chestnut oak banjos, they are on my BHO page, so I’m not going to post any here. because of the density of the wood, it has a sound I would describe as darker as opposed to brighter on that spectrum—not plinky or clanky. they have a sound with a lot of presence and a good amount of sustain, once again a result of the density of the neck. Great for bluegrass or old time.
Edited by - Ken LeVan on 12/12/2022 16:08:31
Simply…gorgeous!
I have so many questions about this…
quote:
Originally posted by AGACNPSimply…gorgeous!
I have so many questions about this…
Thanks!
As for questions, feel free to ask away!
Very nice looking banjo! I assume you make all the metal parts yourself?
That is just flat out marvelous! Congratulations . Heck ! I’m proud for you ! Thanks for posting. Keep laying the thumb down !!
quote:
Originally posted by Ken LeVanquote:
Originally posted by AGACNPSimply…gorgeous!
I have so many questions about this…Thanks!
As for questions, feel free to ask away!
Thanks Ken. As somewhat of a 'hamfisted' woodworker myself, I've always appreciated the design and execution of your projects.
My initial questions about this project are regarding the prepping of the log for use. How did you mill the log initially? Do you have a kiln, or do you air dry your stock? You mention skinning the resonator with this wood. You made your own veneer?
Edited by - AGACNP on 12/12/2022 18:27:59
That's a beautiful and unique piece of work. Thanks for posting.
The leaf inlay in the fifth fret is beautifully done!
Wow! Very nice!!
quote:
Originally posted by AGACNPThanks Ken. As somewhat of a 'hamfisted' woodworker myself, I've always appreciated the design and execution of your projects.
My initial questions about this project are regarding the prepping of the log for use. How did you mill the log initially? Do you have a kiln, or do you air dry your stock? You mention skinning the resonator with this wood. You made your own veneer?
I have a small "portable" sawmill (not really portable—it sits on the ground), which I originally bought to build a timber-frame house and now use to make lumber from logs I get locally—standing dead, windfalls, etc, It's supposed to be 18" max, but I can get a 20" log on it if it's really straight.
I make slats for steam-bent rims, boards for necks, thin pieces for guitar backs and sides and resonator skins—the very thin pieces have to be planed down to between .070" for resonator skins and guitar sides to between .080"-.100" for guitar backs.
I air dry everything stacked and stickered under sheet-metal roofing, which is a "poor-man's dry kiln"—plenty hot in the summer but ventilated and great snake habitat.
I make resonator dishes as a 3-ply lamination of 1/16" - 1/28" poplar veneer and the skin I make myself as the outer layer.
Ken, I love the look of the oak. It looks very much like my antique lawyer's bookcase. Thanks for the photos.
quote:
Originally posted by roydsjrVery nice looking banjo! I assume you make all the metal parts yourself?
Thanks!
Yes, I make all the metal parts myself.
WOW! I am amazed at all of this! I enjoy seeing the craftsmanship of your work. I'm impressed with the metal work and design. I thought of one day when I'm up visiting my family in Mt. Pleasant Mills, PA. that I would like to come up and see you and your work. I enjoy your post that you show from time to time. You don't have anything to be ashamed of for sure! Years ago I bought up a lot of wood and materials to build banjos but I felt like the LORD showed me he had other plans for me. So I mess with it once in a while. Hope you have a blessed Christmas! Sincerely, Donald Sowers
quote:
Originally posted by Ken LeVanquote:
Originally posted by AGACNPThanks Ken. As somewhat of a 'hamfisted' woodworker myself, I've always appreciated the design and execution of your projects.
My initial questions about this project are regarding the prepping of the log for use. How did you mill the log initially? Do you have a kiln, or do you air dry your stock? You mention skinning the resonator with this wood. You made your own veneer?
I have a small "portable" sawmill (not really portable—it sits on the ground), which I originally bought to build a timber-frame house and now use to make lumber from logs I get locally—standing dead, windfalls, etc, It's supposed to be 18" max, but I can get a 20" log on it if it's really straight.
I make slats for steam-bent rims, boards for necks, thin pieces for guitar backs and sides and resonator skins—the very thin pieces have to be planed down to between .070" for resonator skins and guitar sides to between .080"-.100" for guitar backs.
I air dry everything stacked and stickered under sheet-metal roofing, which is a "poor-man's dry kiln"—plenty hot in the summer but ventilated and great snake habitat.
I make resonator dishes as a 3-ply lamination of 1/16" - 1/28" poplar veneer and the skin I make myself as the outer layer.
A very thoughtful, time-consuming, detailed reply as I've come to expect of you. I air dry all my freshly cut lumber as well for furniture and turnings.
Your attention to detail and the log-to-finished project (not to mention the metal work!) seems a labor of love. I don't always reply, but always appreciate 'looking over your shoulder' as you share your projects and progress. If I lived closer, I'm certain I'd be very annoyingly present at your shop every day... 
Edited by - AGACNP on 12/13/2022 08:00:22
Stunning banjo…! I'd probably keep the resonator on most of the time, since it's so beautiful.
Edited by - Emiel on 12/13/2022 08:10:57
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