When marking a uncut fretboard for fret slots, should one use a set square or something else?
Very useful in my shop for custom made banjos . Markings on the rim for bracket shoe position and height.
It's not a high precision tool for square.
I use a clear plastic ruler with a grid on it so I can see and align with the centerline and the other fret lines along both vertices. The only trick there is making sure you are directly above the lines as perspective can throw you off. I use a very thin plastic ruler and put the marked side on the bottom.
Edited by - dpgetman on 09/26/2022 08:56:17
I measure & mark for the frets twice. Once along the line of the top string & then again along the line of the bottom string. Then join the dots & cut the slots. I’ve found it to be be simple & accurate. I used to do it this way even before I started on fan-frets.
The frets need to be perpendicular to the 3rd string line, so are 1/2 - 3/4 degree off either side depending on the taper of the fingerboard.
You could make a special square for your taper, get an adjustable one, or make a small wedge to use on a regular try square.
I use a Stanley fixed 6" square from the 60's.
The tri square is too sloppy.
I slot before I taper.
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