When marking position of the hole for the pin, do you measure with the brace flat against the banjo pot side, which would be the position when there is no tension on the brace?
Don't want to mess this up, first time installing one. Thank you so much
Edited by - v silly on 08/19/2022 14:53:29
Exactly what do you mean by neck brace?
The hardware that installs on the dowel stick and presses against the side of the banjo to tighten the neck to the body.
You mean THIS kind of mounting hardware?
Yes the first picture with traditional dowel stick, was I using incorrect terminology?
Edited by - v silly on 08/19/2022 16:34:18
No, you weren't. Mike's our biggest prankster.
I think his intention was to attach a picture of an orthopedic devise for "Picture 2," but it didn't upload. He probably didn't notice his error and has gone to sleep by now. Tomorrow he'll come back with something silly.
If I understand your question correctly, I'm pretty sure that the answer is no, that it is better to leave maybe 1/32" of space. One of the Fairbanks style builders will have to confirm that, though. You will need to be able to remove the brace without removing the dowel, otherwise it will cause difficulties if you ever need to loosen or remove the neck for any reason.
Edited by - rcc56 on 08/19/2022 21:29:38
You weren't exactly using wrong terminology, there are several different pieces of hardware that could be called neck braces. And there are several different styles of mounting hardware so terms are not uniform.
When I install a neck brace (mounting hardware) I fit the brace flat against the rim and mark the spot for the hole about 1/32" to 1/16" from the scallop in the brace. That gives you a little bit of wiggle room when you insert the pin but not enough that you have to turn the screw too far to make it snug up properly.
I hope that made sense.
Edited by - Culloden on 08/19/2022 21:35:49
I will just add that if you drill the hole too close to the rim, you can enlarge it if you can't fit the brace and pin in. If you drill too far from the rim, you will have to plug and redrill.
That makes perfect sense! Now I understand why I should leave a little space. Thank you so much for the help!
Usually there is a thin metal plate that is U shaped that slips over the dowel and against the wood banjo rim (pot). It protects the wood from damage by the end of the dowel tightening screw. Where did you get your hardware?
You need to hold the pot against the neck heel in position. Slip the metal protecting plate over the dowel against the rim (pot). Slip the U shaped tightening brace "lever" with the screw backed out over the dowel held against the plate with the groove for the pin facing the center of the pot. Hold the plate and the lever brace against the rim and mark your hole position carefully with a sharp pencil. When you drill your hole for the pin, pay attention to the drill bit so that the edge of the hole is close to the arc you marked in the brace but not closer to the heel than you mark.
I hope that makes sense, I don't have one I can take pictures of for you.
You don't really have to leave a "space" between the brace and the pin. When you assemble and snug up the brace screw, it will pull everything together, conform the protection plate to the rim and you will have room to remove or install the pin in the future.
Over years on playing you can use the screw to take up any play that develops between the neck heel and the pot.
Here is a picture from Stewart McDonald that shows how it all fits together against the rim or pot. The small gap you see between the brace and the protector plate develops when everything is properly snugged up.
Takes a lot of words to explain what I could show you in 5 seconds. You are right to ask questions, at this point in neck construction you don't want to screw up, I know the feeling.
If it doesn't make complete sense, ask more questions before you drill.
Anyone else want to chime in, please do.
The picture is from Stewart McDonald, thanks to them for that.
I got the neck plate from balsam banjo works, I do have the strike plate. I think I understand well enough not to mess it up at this point. Thank you everyone
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