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Jun 26, 2022 - 1:39:25 PM
2 posts since 4/25/2022

I have a Deering Goodtime that was knocked off of a stand and the joint between the headstock and the neck separated.
What is the best glue to repair it?

Jun 26, 2022 - 2:11:14 PM
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13457 posts since 6/2/2008

Carpenters wood glue, such as Original Titebond, will do the job.

Do not use Titebond II or III. Definitely do not use Gorilla glue.

Jun 26, 2022 - 4:36:39 PM
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Bill Rogers (Moderator)

USA

26186 posts since 6/25/2005

Log on to frets. com and read everything Frank Ford says about glue and gluing in the “for luthiers “ section. While Titebond is likely the right glue, there’s more to it than that.

Jun 26, 2022 - 5:02:22 PM
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604 posts since 5/29/2015

Is this the fingerjoint or scarf joint, an actual crack in the headstock, or a separation of the nut and fingerboard from the neck? There are all sorts of clamping, glue clean out, and getting glue into the crack or separation.

Jun 27, 2022 - 6:38:36 AM
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9812 posts since 8/28/2013

Rob has some very good questions. The type of break surely can influence how it can be repaired, possibly affecting what glue should be used.

It may be a good thing to post a few pictures of the break.

Jun 27, 2022 - 10:32:22 AM

Ladanky

USA

2 posts since 4/25/2022

Thanks for the help everyone. here is a picture of the separation.
banjohangout.org/forum/attachm...ID=287358

Jun 27, 2022 - 10:53:25 AM
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rcc56

USA

4341 posts since 2/20/2016

Hmmm. It's odd that a finger joint subjected to shock opened because of glue failure rather than wood failure.

Steve's link doesn't work, but the picture is accessible from his home page.

New glue doesn't like to stick to old glue. And I don't know what Deering uses on their finger joints.
Depending on what they used, it might clean up easily, or it might clean up poorly.

If it came to me, I'd probably separate the head from the neck so I could clean the joint. Depending on what I found, I might use water, or alcohol, and/or a cabinet scraper or possibly [very carefully] a toothbrush until I saw clean wood. A very small thin but rigid file might be helpful after everything dries out for 2 or 3 days.

Then I'd refit the joint as snugly as possible. If I could get it really clean and snug, I would probably use Titebond original. If I couldn't get it clean or snug, I would probably use a good grade of epoxy, even though I generally avoid the stuff.

Glue is slippery, and you would have to find a way to clamp it in place without it moving around.  You might be able to temporarily pin it with a small brad after you applied the glue, and leave a hole in your clamping caul to accommodate the pin.

A lot of work, and a bit tricky.  But I can't think of a glue that would hold reliably without cleaning the joint.

Edited by - rcc56 on 06/27/2022 11:00:44

Jun 27, 2022 - 11:02:19 AM

7012 posts since 9/21/2007

It is good to have photos of the broken peghead to share whenever someone asks "what is a good stand to buy" or posts "look at this nice stand I built".

The best storage for a banjo is the case.

Jun 27, 2022 - 11:31:46 AM
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14753 posts since 6/29/2005

Broken peg heads is a recurring subject.

I have very little to add to what has been suggested already—it's very important that the joint be perfectly clean because glue generally has to sink into the pores of the wood in order to get a good grip, and glue already saturated into the joint will prevent that from happening.

The only glue I know that will reliably bond a "not so clean" joint that may have some gaps is epoxy. even then, you have to make a glue-up clamping jig so that you can tightly push the pieces together without them slipping.

Edited by - Ken LeVan on 06/27/2022 11:33:00

Jun 27, 2022 - 12:09:34 PM
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12271 posts since 10/27/2006

So odd that the joint separated. I'd call that a lucky break. Usually, the glue is stronger than the wood.

I would contact Deering and ask what glue they used. To Bob Chuckrow's point, knowing that determines the next step.

Since you will need to devise a way to clamp it together, you might want to contact Deering to see what they will charge to do the repair.

If the glue was not properly applied (should be easy to see one way or the other), this might be covered under a materials & workmanship warranty. IMO, had it been glued properly, the neck should have cracked or broken. If a Goodtime is over 6 years old, warranty will not normally apply. I'm not saying that you are entitled to anything in this regard but it doesn't hurt to ask.

Deering warranty

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Jun 27, 2022 - 12:30:30 PM
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9812 posts since 8/28/2013

I don't care for finger joints. I've seen them done poorly and those do come apart. In removing some door molding, I wound up with three pieces instead of one continuous piece, and it was due partly to splintering wood, but mostly because of glue failure. I would think Deering would do them well, but mistakes can happen.

I would basically follow Mr. Chuckrow's directions, but you should, in fact, contact Deering not only about warranty repairs, but about the glue they use and for suggestions/advice about how to handle such a repair, if the warranty has exceeded its "best if used by" date.

Good luck.

Jun 27, 2022 - 1:34:59 PM
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14753 posts since 6/29/2005

It would be interesting to see a close-up picture of the halves of the joint.  It's VERY unlikely that a finger joint of the kind used by Deering would come apart. I could imagine a couple of things in a factory setting, like Deering:

(1) they forgot to put any glue in the joint, and a machine made finger joint would be tight enough to hold together for a while, just reinforced by the finish seeping in.

(2) if they are using some kind of conversion glue, which is quite likely, it didn't get run through the cure cycle /microwave, UV light whatever it is.

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