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Aug 7, 2020 - 12:49:33 PM
65 posts since 12/14/2012

I am working on an old banjo resonator and would like to replace the binding (purfling?). I have located the right width (China - plastic - cheap), but I am thinking it may look deceptively easy to do (but then I thought french polishing and nitro-cellulosing looked not too difficult on the Youtube clips! I was sadly wrong). Once I strip it, I have to replace it. It is rather damaged and discoloured and I think I can work on the resonator better if I do not have the worry about the present binding. What's the concensus on this operation please?

Aug 7, 2020 - 1:40:15 PM

lapsteel

Canada

428 posts since 8/13/2015

Please post a few photos of your resonator.

Aug 7, 2020 - 1:56:48 PM

13153 posts since 6/29/2005

To use your own words, I think it's deceptively easy to do, and the devil is in the details.

Aug 7, 2020 - 3:20:58 PM
likes this

1062 posts since 5/19/2018

I’ve done it a few times...and....it’s not as easy as it looks.

Might even cost you less to ship the Resonator to a reputable luthier and let them do it.

You have to have the right tools, glues, blades and the what not.

Then again, I enjoyed trying my hand at it and it turned out decent, not perfect, but decent.

Aug 7, 2020 - 3:39:47 PM

2126 posts since 2/7/2008

I’ve done it! Twice! How hard can it be.

I’ve only done the binding on the perimeter, not the concentric rings on the back of the resonator, so I can’t speak to that.

Have a plan.

Make sure your binding channels are clean.

Do a dry run to make sure the length is right. There’s no time for trimming and goofing around once the glue starts setting.

I used LMI FCA glue which I felt was a little more forgiving than CA or Duco.

I used binding tape (and lots of it) to hold it in place.

Use a hair dryer to soften the adhesive on the binding tape before you peel it off. This will prevent the tape from pulling up wood fibers.

Carefully scrape it level. If you plan to stain, do that before you scrape.

See? Nothing to it.

Aug 7, 2020 - 7:27:34 PM

Fathand

Canada

11642 posts since 2/7/2008

Your binding needs to be be as close a possible in size to your binding ledge without being undersized. If slightly oversized in can be scraped to perfect size.

Be sure to use the correct glue for your binding. Some tortoise looking and grained ivoroid are still celluloid (use Duco) but many modern bindings are ABS (use Weldon 16) . Some people like to use Super glue.

Then there are wood bindings that probably need to be pre bent but you can use normal wood glue.

I use normal masking tape from the dollar store and never had tear out on wood yet.

Aug 7, 2020 - 8:40:04 PM

116 posts since 2/20/2004
Online Now

I’ve done it a few times. Not that difficult and turned out nice.
Same for French polish.
Listen to the input here on the hangout.
Maybe try some practice runs before working on a Granada.

Aug 8, 2020 - 5:56:46 AM

65 posts since 12/14/2012

Thanks for the advice. I don't think I need to post any photos. It is the binding (X2) around the rim I mean. I am encouraged by some of the comments - but will have to take a deep breath if I go for it. Maybe I'll post the results! Cheers everybody.

One further question that has just occurred to me. How easy is it to strip the current binding? Maybe I will post a picture now!

Edited by - peterreynoldsuk on 08/08/2020 05:59:05

Aug 8, 2020 - 8:09:29 AM

65 posts since 12/14/2012

quote:
Originally posted by peterreynoldsuk

Thanks for the advice. I don't think I need to post any photos. It is the binding (X2) around the rim I mean. I am encouraged by some of the comments - but will have to take a deep breath if I go for it. Maybe I'll post the results! Cheers everybody.

One further question that has just occurred to me. How easy is it to strip the current binding? Maybe I will post a picture now!

 



Aug 8, 2020 - 12:38:42 PM

lapsteel

Canada

428 posts since 8/13/2015

I apologize for asking for the pictures. What was I thinking??

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