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Jun 4, 2020 - 9:32:49 AM
298 posts since 12/28/2014

So I went to my workshop and someone left several bundles of 10x10 and 14x14 burl and curly veneer my doorstep..O_o. It’s a shared workshop so I asked around and everyone was clueless to where it came from and why (the two that I share the workspace with mostly do handy work and avoid finer detailed carpentry so they had little to no interest in it.)

After I go through the proper channels to make sure I’m not stealing a neighbors 800$ veneer delivery is a segmented veneer on a pot a realistic option? Or should I just keep it for pegheads and other small projects. I have very limited experience working with 1/16” veneers

Jun 4, 2020 - 11:01:16 AM

3119 posts since 5/29/2011

Slingerland used to use birdseye maple veneer on their rims.

Jun 4, 2020 - 12:41:07 PM

76 posts since 8/3/2017

Lots of how to books these days, some better than others, of course. This is IMHO still one of the best books on veneering...Practical Veneering by Charles H. Hayward. ( c. 1949, British to begin with but reprinted several times). If it isn’t in the Public Library or already in your collection I see that Amazon has it listed. Thicker knife cut veneers, are not so common these days. Hayward doesn’t deal, as I remember, with luthier and string instrument work specifically, but many of the fundamentals are pretty much the same. By the way I hope you get to the keep the veneers. Wild figures can be tricky. Good practice with more or less free wood even if you don’t find it suitable for your banjos. I know others on the site will have a say here.

Jun 4, 2020 - 1:41:18 PM

13006 posts since 6/29/2005

If you ever find out where it came from, let us know—1/16" veneer is hard to come by—even Certainly Wood in East Aurora, not terribly far from you in Rochester, doesn't have much in the way of 1/16" besides poplar.

Edited by - Ken LeVan on 06/04/2020 13:42:00

Jun 4, 2020 - 3:31:35 PM

298 posts since 12/28/2014

Ken LeVan I’ll have to skip through it. Some of it looked like waterfall Bulbinga and it seemed thicker than I’m used to but a lot of the burl stuff was very dry and frail looking so I just took it out of the hot sun and put it on a more climate safe shelf till I figure out what’s going on.

There’s a older woman that goes through the trash and sells her findings on eBay ( the shop is in a rather ritzy part of town and the locals throw out stuff Most people save up for). I’m 80% sure she found it in someone’s waste bin and brought it over thinking we could do something with it.

Jun 4, 2020 - 3:42:09 PM
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250 posts since 7/2/2010
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I've used walnut burl veneer on two rims. It took six segments to cover the rim, but the veneer was book-matched. If your veneer is not book-matched you could hide the segment joints behind a hook or separate them with a stipe of contrasting veneer.

My veneer was rather fragile, so I used a homemade veneer softener on them - 8 oz water, 2 tsp glycerin, and 2 tsp alcohol. The veneer was saturated with the softener then clamped between two pieces of plywood with paper towels between each piece of veneer. They were left clamped overnight and the next day they would bend without cracking.

Jun 8, 2020 - 1:52:43 PM

298 posts since 12/28/2014

Went to every possible option to see who it might belong to and everyone’s clueless so I pulled out the calipers and started processing. The burls are on the thin side about 1/32 and domestics (curly cherry and some Birdseye from the looks of it) is about 1/18. When I pull up the courage to ruin some of it I’ll post the results.

Edited by - link-o-sausages on 06/08/2020 13:54:38

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