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May 30, 2020 - 8:31:47 PM
1239 posts since 4/13/2017

I have a 1/2" diameter flush trim bit I use for shaping block rims. For hard maple, what speed should I use to prevent the router table from wanting to rip the rim out if my hands but still cut effectively? I have the Bosch router that costs like 189 with the fixed and plunge base. I installed it in the Bosch router table.

May 31, 2020 - 4:15:24 AM
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2876 posts since 2/18/2009

Whatever speed you use the router will want to rip the wood out of your hands, they're a quite dangerous tool. The speed to which the router is set is a factor of two things, bit diameter and feed rate. The bigger a bit is the slower you'll want to run it, as it is the tip speed in feet per minute at the cutting edge that really matters. The kind of wood you're routing can also be a factor. How fast you feed the wood into the bit is also important. If you feed it too fast the bit is more likely to want to grab and to tear out chunks of the wood, especially as the grain direction changes. If you feed too slow the bit will leave burn marks on the wood. When I'm routing scoops on banjo fretboards I run the bit pretty slow so that I can move the router more slowly to follow the line I drew without burning the wood. I would take some scrap wood and experiment a bit till you find the router speed and feed rate that seem to work for your particular setup and needs.

May 31, 2020 - 11:01:09 AM
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beegee

USA

21698 posts since 7/6/2005

Two things:
1)Many super-shallow passes minimize the possibility of the router grabbing the wood.
2)new sharp bits are imperative

Jun 1, 2020 - 6:06:36 AM

2072 posts since 2/7/2008

In order to minimize the depth of cut, it can be helpful to remove the bulk of the material using bandsaw so the only wood being removed by the router bit is the finish cut. The size of the bit and number of flutes is also a factor.

Jun 1, 2020 - 8:42:37 AM
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YWGbanjo

Canada

187 posts since 9/29/2012

I've never actually done this, but it seems to me that router tear-out could be minimized by aligning the block grain as shown in my sketch.   I think you could feed the workpiece against the rotation of the bit, thus avoiding climb-cutting.  This grain alignment would complicate cutting of the blocks, and there might be other disadvantages I haven't thought of.

As an aside, the router is my least-favourite power tool.  That screaming banshee isn't very forgiving....

Doug


 

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