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Jan 12, 2019 - 8:03:12 AM
182 posts since 7/11/2014

Hi,

I’m making a tb2 style 5 string neck. The 2 way truss rod I have sits apron 2mm below the Fingerboard ( not yet glued in place) and is perhaps a very little lose sideways in its slot. I don’t really want to use glue or silicone so was thinking i could use very think paper or plastic to shim the sides a tiny bit to stop potential rattles . In terms of height does it matter too much that it’s below the height of the FB by 1.5-2mm and if so I guess I should then add a thin wood strip about the flat metal area on the top of the truss rod where it sits under the FB. Thanks for your thoughts. Tim

Edited by - Waltraud on 01/12/2019 08:05:13

Jan 12, 2019 - 8:06:17 AM

182 posts since 7/11/2014

Jan 12, 2019 - 8:18:16 AM
likes this

11315 posts since 6/29/2005

I would put a strip of 2mm veneer on top of the truss rod so the surface is flush. When the fingerboard is glued on the strip will  get glued to the fingerboard.  I would also cover up those exposed threads before gluing on the fingerboard so glue doesn't get into the threads.

You should NOT put silicone in there - if you accidentally get that on the wood, glue will never stick to it.

Jan 12, 2019 - 8:41:45 AM

182 posts since 7/11/2014

Thanks very much Ken, that sounds good! Appreciate your help.

Jan 12, 2019 - 9:52:59 AM

9390 posts since 6/2/2008

My concern -- based on the experience of building zero necks -- is that the bottom of the truss rod slot is deeper into the neck, which increases the minimum thickness the neck could be and maybe increases the chance of cutting into the truss rod when shaping the neck.

My inclination -- again, based on zero experience -- would be to line the bottom of the slot to elevate the rod. I believe wood binding strips are available in a thickness that is very close to what you need.  Perhaps even plastic binding would work.

Jan 12, 2019 - 10:33:47 AM

mbanza

USA

2085 posts since 9/16/2007

I agree with Ken, glue a spline above the truss rod. Cutting into a filler piece in the bottom of the groove while shaping is just as bad as cutting into just the channel itself.

Shim the side/sides of the truss rod so that it is snug.

Jan 12, 2019 - 11:32:45 AM
Players Union Member

rudy

USA

13334 posts since 3/27/2004

Add a filler strip above the rod, making sure it's proud of the top.  Scrape it level with the top to form a solid and level surface on which to glue your fretboard.

Jan 12, 2019 - 11:48:04 AM

11315 posts since 6/29/2005

You are probably going to use some templates to shape the neck.

It's a good idea to determine where the truss rod is going to sit in the neck, in the cross section.  That way, you will be able to better visualize and measure where the rod is "in there" and not be worried about cutting through the wood and hitting the rod. You can do that using your profile templates.

I like the rod to be centered in the neck more or less, and like it to be 1/4" down from the surface of the fingerboard for my profiles. Here's a diagram showing where the rod sits in two of my standard profiles:

Edited by - Ken LeVan on 01/12/2019 11:49:08

Jan 13, 2019 - 2:53:06 AM

182 posts since 7/11/2014

Ok. The neck is semi-finished and not much lot is needed. I’m in the Uk and rather than get a stew mac hotrod which would fit just fine I purchased one which was a little shorter. I don’t believe that the slot is too deep, more that I’ve got a slightly shallow rod. I’ll get a strip that’s just proud and make sure it’s a good fit before flying on the FB with titebond 1.

Jan 13, 2019 - 5:23:15 AM

11315 posts since 6/29/2005

just out of curiosity, why is there a hole in the neck?  I'd plug that in some structurally sound way before gluing on the fingerboard and shaping the neck.

Jan 13, 2019 - 6:51:14 AM

1656 posts since 2/7/2008

Just curious... why do you want to avoid using silicone?

Jan 13, 2019 - 1:20:06 PM

182 posts since 7/11/2014

I don’t want to use silicone in case the rod needed to be removed.

The holes in the neck are from Custom Inlay who cut two small holes in their necks and fingerboard stocks aid alignment- at least in theory!

Jan 13, 2019 - 1:56:10 PM

11315 posts since 6/29/2005

quote:
Originally posted by Quickstep192

Just curious... why do you want to avoid using silicone?


The stuff is a mess, gets on everything, and if you get just one little drop of it or some fingerprints from touching it on a piece of wood , neither glue nor any kind of finish will ever stick there.  I know that Stewmac suggested using it - someone should take them out behind the barn and shoot them for suggesting that.

Jan 13, 2019 - 3:53:29 PM

182 posts since 7/11/2014

What about a nice advisory letter or email as opposed to a shooting. A friend recently had a truss rod with a stuck thread, luckily it could be taken out and replaced....no glue or silicone needed. I have purchased a strip of maple to glue in above the truss rod.

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