I pulled this out after a long hibernation and the action was about 1/2 inch. A Norman early B 20 with a bolt on neck. The neck was simply removed by removing 2 screws. Anyway the problem is the neck block is loose from the top .It has moved a bit towards the bridge and lapping over braces it should be butting. I can rigg it carefully to original position and clamp it with new glue. It is not worth enough to pay a real luthier and I have built banjos ha ha. Anyway I have no more knowledge than that. I do not want to try to remove the complete top . My question;; is there any way to get in there between the top and block to remove old glue or some other prep work. What type of glue should I use.Will stuffing it in there with a putty knife or piece of veneer be OK.. Once i get it full of glue I figure to clamp it well Signed need advice from experts
A feeler gauge with a handle attached is the tool to use. Use around a .004” to .006” feeler gauge. A set of feeler gauges are available at any auto parts store or hardware. You don’t have to worry about removing old glue other than sliding the feeler gauge around to remove what you can. I’d use hot hide glue or fish glue. Before clamping make sure things are aligned properly. Jim
You can glue some sandpaper to a palette knife and scrape a lot of the old glue out of there.
You might or might not be able to do this through the sound hole. But it would be much easier if you can remove the neck and work from the outside of the guitar. If there is top binding covering the joint from the outside, you can cut it, remove it, and replace it after you have cleaned and re-glued the neck block.
To remove the neck, you can heat the fingerboard extension with a 2" x 5" 50 watt heat blanket available from MSC Industrial or McMaster-Carr. I use a Harbor Freight router speed controller as a temperature controller. Heat the fingerboard extension gradually until the glue softens, and seperate the glue joint gently. Use patience. If it doesn't come apart easily, it's not ready. If it's stubborn, you can dampen the blade with a few drops of water.
I recommend Titebond original for the job. This instrument was built with modern glues, and hide glue or fish glue will not hold to a surface previously glued with modern glues. The cleaner you can get the joint, the better, or you'll end up having to re-do it again later. You can open the joint slightly with your spatula or palette knife and use another palette knife to slide the glue in there.
I will add that I have heard multiple accounts of fish glue failure.
One further suggestion: when you get the block where you want it, drill a couple of tiny holes through the top into the block before you glue it. Then you can use locating pins to hold everything in place while you set your clamps and cauls. When the glue has set, pull the pins out.
This is how I hold fingerboards and guitar bridges in place when I re-glue them. I have a couple of holes in my clamping cauls to make room for the pins. An ancient trick that works like a charm. No slipping, no sliding around.