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 ARCHIVED TOPIC: Tb2 Amber brown colour

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Waltraud - Posted - 01/26/2019:  05:52:55

I’m getting ready to colour and lacquer my tb2 conversion neck to go on a diamond flange 26 pot. I’d like to make th colour an amber brown as I’ve seen on some mid to late 20s models. Am thinking ; amber analyne rub then sealer then mid brown tinted nitro laquer? Will rest on some birth ply to see. What do you think!’? Thanks and happy picking. Building is nearly as fun as playing ??

Waltraud - Posted - 01/26/2019:  05:54:28


Ken LeVan - Posted - 01/26/2019:  09:38:23

If you stain it with aniline dye, as you suggest, you don't need to use tinted lacquer (which will darken the binding when you spray it). I would do a test on a scrap piece before actually dying and spraying the neck.

I would do the aniline with a brush, several light, thinned down coats building up the color, avoiding the binding. Rub the stain with a 3M cloth between coats.

Waltraud - Posted - 01/26/2019:  10:24:08

Thanks Ken. The reason for coloured laquer is that from the various pictures I have on tb2’s from mid to late 20s many are that very dark tb1/2 brown that shows very little grain but a few tb2s seem a bit lighter amber/brown....hence my idea about amber stain under slightly brown tinted lacquer. I’ll do some tests for sure before doing it on the old banjo.

Quickstep192 - Posted - 01/26/2019:  10:56:56

I'd agree that if you're going to dye, you don't need to tint the lacquer. If you really want to do both, I'd be inclined to dye brown and add amber to the finish rather than the other way around. A bit of amber tinted lacquer on the binding will make it look old, but brown will make it look painted.

Here's a link to TransTint colors. Since their samples are done on maple, they're pretty accurate.


By the way, I used this tape on my bindings and no dye got on to my bindings.



Edited by - Quickstep192 on 01/26/2019 11:01:04

pickin_fool - Posted - 01/26/2019:  11:25:16

if you do use an anile dye you may find that certain areas absorb more than other a toner or tinted lacquer might be called for..

in my finishing career, if called for, i would stain then seal with lac sanding sealer, scuff sand, then lay down the toner as required, with a clear coat on top..i am pretty much opposed to using a tinted lacquer because the tinting agent has a tendency to hide the natural wood grain..also tinted lacquer is a bit harder to repair if need be..if you do spray any kind of tint tho be very careful around areas that have binding..(another point in favor of toner as you can always mask of any areas with binding, then unmask before you top coat)...a toner will not add to the thickness so you dont get any ridging

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