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Please note this is an archived topic, so it is locked and unable to be replied to. You may, however, start a new topic and refer to this topic with a link: http://www.banjohangout.org/archive/346739
fretful1 - Posted - 09/23/2018: 22:26:43
I've been playing modern banjos for a number of years but recently purchased an old Dobson. I've heard of folks using nylon and nylgut strings on vintage instruments. But, since I have absolutely no experience in this area, I though I'd impose on my BHO friends to school me as to the difference between these two options. Can anyone enlighten me?
Edited by - fretful1 on 09/23/2018 22:32:54
Profchris - Posted - 09/24/2018: 01:45:08
I'm mainly a ukulele player, and for those instruments Nylgut was the game changer when it was introduced. Since then, Fluorocarbon strings have arrived, and the uke world tends to use either that or Nylgut. Nylon strings are pretty much not used, except for some high-end nylon products (e.g. from D'Addario) which have special coatings.
In rough terms, on a uke:
Nylon gives a pleasant sound (if the strings are decent quality), but rather unexciting. You get the fundamental note and not much in the way of overtones to colour the music. It's all a little muted.
Nylgut was designed to give a very similar sound to gut strings. You get distinct overtones (I often describe the sound as jangly, in a nice way). It's a bright and lively sound.
Fluorocarbon provides a very strong and clear fundamental note with little in the way of overtones. It's used a lot on the longer scale ukes for melodic playing, where I think it sounds best. The strings are denser, and therefore thinner, so they're harder on the fingers than nylon or Nylgut but no more so than steel strings.
If it helps, on a banjo uke I find that Nylgut provides too much in the way of overtones, and that fluorocarbon changes the instrument so it loses some of its banjo character. So on my banjo uke I prefer low tension nylon. I suspect the head adds in the overtones which are missing on a wooden instrument.
My banjo is a tenor, and you can't find reliable strings for the top A, so I can't say from experience how synthetic strings of any kind work there.
100 year old banjos would have used gut strings, so Nylgut should give the closest to the original sound (but that doesn't mean you'll like it!).
AndrewD - Posted - 09/24/2018: 03:27:17
I used to use La Bella nylons, as they were all that were easily available here. Never liked them much. Not a great sound and took ages to stretch out and stabilise. I now use Aquila Nylgut Reds. Better feel, better (richer) sound, quicker to stablise. Some complain here that Nylguts (especially the new formula) have a tendency to break. I only use them on old banjos with wooden or tie on bar tailpieces and nuts that were cut for gut. Never had any problems.
mbuk06 - Posted - 09/24/2018: 03:55:08
I play high quality rectified nylon strings and silver-plated copper bass strings on my original 7-string banjos.
Savarez make superb quality nylon strings. They also offer a wide range of options for selecting tension and gauge. The high tension yellow card set is occasionally suggested as an 'off-the-peg' solution in regard to banjo use; however I have found that single set not to be the optimum for my needs. You will need to experiment with sets and also individual string gauges.
My comments are hopefully not read as contradiction of Chris' and Andrew's posts; but rather as an additional perspective that acknowledges the fact that playing needs vary. Strings are only one element of overall set-up. Overall set-up is what determines tone and playability. In my experience set-up on 6 and 7-string banjos is not enhanced, and is in fact significantly worsened, by putting strings that characteristically increase overtones in the mix.
Edited by - mbuk06 on 09/24/2018 04:10:02
R Buck - Posted - 09/24/2018: 05:39:24
Whatever happened to Sands Classic strings? They were the bomb and I still have a set in reserve for the banjo I use it on, but haven't seen them in a long time.
2hennepin6 - Posted - 09/24/2018: 05:47:29
I just changed out the tailpiece on my Deering Goodtime to a no-knot tailpiece and put Aquila Nylgut strings on it. I realy like the sound and feel of them. It is a nice change of pace from the steel strings on my other banjo.
I briefly tried the Aquila Red strings and loved their sound. Unfortunately one broke shortly after putting them on and I haven't tried them again.
The other factor probably mentioned already is the lack of neck reinforcement/truss rod in older banjos This makes them ill-suited for steel strings which are higher tension and can warp the neck over time. Sometimes other hardware such as bone tailpieces are unsuited for steel. And steel strings may not even have been around when your banjo was made.
Edited by - 2hennepin6 on 09/24/2018 05:57:06
mbuk06 - Posted - 09/24/2018: 06:00:31
quote:
Originally posted by 2hennepin6I just changed out the tailpiece on my Deering Goodtime to a no-knot tailpiece and put Aquila Nylgut strings on it. I realy like the sound and feel of them. It is a nice change of pace from the steel strings on my other banjo.
I briefly tried the Aquila Red strings and loved their sound. Unfortunately one broke shortly after putting them on and I haven't tried them again.
You may need to file your metal tailpiece to ensure that any sharp burrs are removed. Direct from the factory no-knot tailpieces are very efficient at slicing through nylon strings...like a knife through butter.
Parlour banjos of the type typically made c.1880-1920 were originally intended to be fitted with gut strings.
Edited by - mbuk06 on 09/24/2018 06:04:24
rudy - Posted - 09/24/2018: 06:22:42
quote:
Originally posted by fretful1I've been playing modern banjos for a number of years but recently purchased an old Dobson. I've heard of folks using nylon and nylgut strings on vintage instruments. But, since I have absolutely no experience in this area, I though I'd impose on my BHO friends to school me as to the difference between these two options. Can anyone enlighten me?
Profchris's comments are spot on as far as characteristics of the various synthetic string materials.
"Nylgut" as a brand has went through several permutations as Aquila has experimented with various formulations. Aquila's CEO posts occasionally here and recently posted about a new formulation that could solve the seemingly endless quest for brightness and volume with minimal concerns for breakage.
It is imperative to have a string path and end anchor techniques that don't create stress points or sharp edges for the string. Breakage is generally not a problem if you take those things into consideration.The newer formulations of Nylgut offer clearer and brighter tone, higher volume, less breakage, less time to stabilize when they are first installed, and less settling in time when alternating between different tunings. The last point is more a concern for "old time" playing styles and Nylguts are problematic if you play styles that require frequent re-tuning. I prefer a steel-strung banjo if I'm only going to carry a single instrument, but if you utilize the "two banjo" solution then re-tuning isn't much of a problem.
The most frequent complaint you'll find is the difficulty of getting a good fourth string tone with an unwound string. This is a matter of personal preference that you have to resolve for yourself. I'm satisfied with unwound tone with the newer Nylgut formulations. If you decide that you prefer the feel and tone of a wound fourth then you may find that the windings degrade much faster than the rest of the strings, requiring a new fourth string occasionally.
I personally run Nylguts, with the most recent formulations of "New Nylgut" being very good. Do check out Mimmo Peruffo's (Aquilacorde.com) most recent posts regarding the up-coming re-formulation of the "Red" series. It sounds like it may be the "synthetic solution" we've all been waiting for:
New Banjo Set Made From Sugarcane Polymer...
Mimmo domonstrates his new Red formulation:
Edited by - rudy on 09/24/2018 06:37:33
G Edward Porgie - Posted - 09/24/2018: 10:17:14
I think you will get better advice if you posted the style you wish to play on your Dobson. That could make a difference. I would guess that clawhammer players might have certain need that a player of "Classic" banjo. Most of the Classic players hare seem to be using nylon.
Edited by - G Edward Porgie on 09/24/2018 10:17:37
fretful1 - Posted - 09/24/2018: 10:29:46
Wow! Thanks so much for the quick course on synthetic strings. As always, you BHO guys are the best!
Profchris - Posted - 09/24/2018: 11:05:41
Of course, the real answer is try out different types to find what you like!
From the answers here it's 50/50 nylon and Nylgut, so buy a set of each.
2hennepin6 - Posted - 09/24/2018: 14:43:59
quote:
Originally posted by mbuk06quote:
Originally posted by 2hennepin6I just changed out the tailpiece on my Deering Goodtime to a no-knot tailpiece and put Aquila Nylgut strings on it. I realy like the sound and feel of them. It is a nice change of pace from the steel strings on my other banjo.
I briefly tried the Aquila Red strings and loved their sound. Unfortunately one broke shortly after putting them on and I haven't tried them again.You may need to file your metal tailpiece to ensure that any sharp burrs are removed. Direct from the factory no-knot tailpieces are very efficient at slicing through nylon strings...like a knife through butter.
Parlour banjos of the type typically made c.1880-1920 were originally intended to be fitted with gut strings.
Great tip. I could see that being the case now that you mention it. I will file off the string holder nubs of sharp edges.
hweinberg - Posted - 09/25/2018: 08:03:34
I play mostly clawhammer and I have a banjo with 2 nuts and bridges — one for steel and one for nylgut/nylon. I recently found a set of now unobtainable Chris Sands Classic strings. After trying them, I found I preferred the Nylgut 5B mediums better. I prefer the unwound 4th, and the nyguts had more volume and settled in faster. As many have said, however, a lot depends on the tone and playability that works for you on your instrument. I have a Bowlin 1851 fretless that I string with gut (big investment) but with gauges for a modern tuning so I could more easily play with fiddlers.