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ellabrow - Posted - 03/27/2013: 22:09:48
He All,
Recently bought a Gold Tone WL250 that I really am enjoying. I noticed the first string buzzed when I would fret sometimes, and every so often when I was frailing. Got to looking around and noticed that the side of the bridge that supports the first string is considerably shorter than the other side (the foot is thinner thus making the top of the bridge angle downward ever so slightly).
I don't believe this is a compensated bridge, as it isn't stepped at all, but there is a notch out of half of the black top of the bridge at the third string.
Pretty sure it is just a crappy bridge but wanted to get ya'lls advice before I change it out. I measured it with my dial caliper, and the fifth string side is 15.51mm tall and the first string side is 14.31mm tall.
Figuring a bridge swap will fix the buzzing but it never hurts to ask!
All the best and thanks,
Elliot
Paulf - Posted - 03/27/2013: 23:07:13
One of the first things I did was changed the bridge on my GT when I received it. It was sagging in the middle when I got the banjo so I tightened the head with a drum dial, put on a new bridge and AMB strings and was happy with the result. The stock Gold Tone bridge looked pretty cheap as well.
Paul
lightgauge - Posted - 03/28/2013: 04:04:52
I can't comment on the thinner foot, but not unusual for the third slot to be offset a little for compensation. Usually some is taken off the front of the slot to set back the bridge contact slightly.
steve davis - Posted - 03/28/2013: 05:27:37
I always check head tension at the first sign of any buzzing.
A quarter under a 10" straightedge right at the bridge is a good head tension.
Bart Veerman - Posted - 03/28/2013: 05:55:52
If it's an original Goldtone bridge it would have to be an oops one. If you bought that banjo used it could be a custom bridge that was intentionally designed to be shorter at the 1st string side; nothing weird about that, I get regular orders for those.
Either way, if the 1st string buzzes, like Steve said, check the head tension as it might be too low and the bridge is sunk into the head too far because of it. If the tension is fine you need to raise the low side of that bridge or get another one.
hillside - Posted - 03/28/2013: 06:04:48
It is not unusual that a bridge might be higher near the fifth string, as thicker strings have a larger vibration orbit and if you are trying to get the very minimum string height, you can have lower strings for the smaller diameters.
You might want to look carefully at that string and find at exactly which frets it buzzes and if the hext few frets seem higher than in areas where it will not buzz. Do this after checking the head tension per Steve. But with an open back, you may eventually want a slacker head for tone, and will have to select just the right bridge height for the head tension you like.
Most importantly, you should call gold tone and let them help you - they built the banjo and can help you understand what to expect. You don't really need to figure it out yourself (and there are a lot of things which could be invovled here).
BDCA - Posted - 03/28/2013: 06:40:01
quote:
Originally posted by hillside
Most importantly, you should call gold tone and let them help you - they built the banjo and can help you understand what to expect. You don't really need to figure it out yourself (and there are a lot of things which could be invovled here).
Totally DON'T agree with this advice. This is a minor issue, can easily be handled on the forum and any player should learn how to manage the height and placement of their bridges. This wold be like calling Ford, Dearborn because your tail light burned out.
Gold Tone is a great company but lets not waste their time with minor issues that can be handled here.
Cya!
Bob
ZEPP - Posted - 03/28/2013: 07:27:33
As noted above, a bridge change is no big deal, and can really be done on the cheap.
I'm curious though: Did you buy the banjo new or used? Did you buy it from a shop or an individual?
If you bought this from a shop, is it one that knows banjos? If so, they should not only happily check it out, replace the bridge (if needed), check the head tension, and check for a back bow in the neck (not uncommon at this time of year), but show you and explain to you what they're doing so that you are comfortable with it yourself henceforth.
Cheers,
ZEPP
ellabrow - Posted - 03/28/2013: 09:42:57
Hey All,
Thanks so much for the input!
This isn't my first banjo and I have done a head tightening before, as well as changed out a bridge. I don't have a 10" straight edge but can pick up one easily enough. The banjo was purchased new from a local shop, The Denver Folklore Center, and they have a wide selection of banjo and their service & prices are second to none in the Denver area.
This particular banjo has been calling to me for a few weeks now so I finally bit the bullet...to my ears it sounds better than many of the higher priced instruments they have available. As a slight aside I did purchase a skin head (I know I know moisture humidity head tension blah blah blah, but you never learn faster than by experienceing things yourself) and plan on ordering the nylgut strings strings, as well as giving some of the new Reds a try as soon as Zepp gets them in lol.
Off to the shop to see what they will do for me!
All the best,
Elliot
gottasmilealot - Posted - 03/28/2013: 09:46:56
Changing the surface area of the feet contacting the head or altering the mass unevenly can shift the vibrations through the bridge to alter the sound, so it may not really be a problem. I'd set it up like Zepp said, and see if it sounds and plays well... use you ear rather than whether it looks the same as others. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" could apply. If switching our bridges at that point helps you get the sound you desire, then all is good.
ellabrow - Posted - 03/28/2013: 10:05:29
Hey Gottasmilealot,
Just to clarify, it isn't the contact area of the bridge foot, it is the height on one side of the bridge. I own 4 banjos and have never seen one like this, and likely would have never even noticed if I hadn't been trying to find the source of a buzz when hitting the first string. And I can always put the bridge back lol.
Thanks,
Elliot
ellabrow - Posted - 03/28/2013: 12:20:26
Well, just got back from the store and the guy that helped me told me the bridge is supposed to be like that. He put a new first string on it and filed down the slot in the nut just a bit. The problem seemed to have mostly gone away, but he also couldn't hear it....which makes me think it could be my technique. Looked at how I was playing and realized when I frail the first string I am mostly pushing the string toward the back of the neck, IE towards my stomach, instead of towards the ground. Pretty sure this is the problem gonna give it a whirl playing today and see what happens.
All the best and thanks,
Elliot
steve davis - Posted - 03/28/2013: 13:21:36
I would think the quarter/straightedge should work ok on a skin head,but I have no experience with measuring the deflection of a skin head,so take this quarter measurement with a grain of salt,Elliot.
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