My video was presented to the HO to try to show my method of changing the capo settings quickly. My hope was and is that whatever bridge you use, the video will be of help to you. It uses the example of a straight bridge, in which the technique works on all of my banjos (3 of them) and provides a predictable outcome in each case.

To clarify my earlier statement, I have found that when using a compensated bridge, one that compensates more than just the middle (I have not tried Steve's yet), and have the capo on a HIGHER fret, say B, and then play a chord up by the label, some notes measure flat, most notably the second in the case of a highly compensated 2nd string. This occurs even though I see perfect open B string pitch with the tuner on all strings. I do not hear this effect with a straight bridge on higher capo settings.

I also tend to believe (rightly or wrongly) that many pros (bluegrass traditionalists such as Kenny, Ron S, and JD, etc) use a straight bridge for "some" reason. Perhaps it is the tone they want, or maybe they are used to having to adjust their finger pressure on certain strings to get the notes to play in tune. It's what I am accustomed to as well, so it's the type I use.

The compensated bridges that I had previously installed on my banjos were great for open G work (superior, in fact to the straight) for classical, lower tunings, slower songs, extended chords etc. They were perfect in that regard for me. If they work in all capo positions for you on YOUR banjo, by all means go for it.

Prior to trying out Steve's bridge, I had pretty much the same experience with other compensated bridges on the 2nd string. Both the Shubb (and Grover Shubb types) and the Moon bridges, imo, compensate the 2nd string needlessly, and I don't think the 4th string needs much compensation either. The Moon bridge does have good tone, at least the one I tried out last Friday at Jerry Rabun's house.

I've also used a few bridges that compensate just the 3rd string a little, and that helps but not quite enough. Your video would work great for placing those as well. I've never tried the Nechville or Hatfield compensated bridges, but they look like they might have enough compensation on the 3rd string to work very well, and Arthur's bridge also has compensation (shortening the scale) on the 2nd to prevent it from going flat.

The video shows a great way of placing the capo and finding the necessary compromises when using a straight bridge. I've had a very similar approach for years. I think your video will help a lot of pickers and you've done them a great service!

Even with Steve's bridge, if you place the capo improperly, you'll have intonation problems. Putting it directly behind the fret as you show, with as little pressure as possible for clear notes and no sideways displacement or lopsided pressure is what's needed.

Thanks, Art. I appreciate your follow up. 

Glad to!

For those who missed the link to the video and don't want to go back to the previous page, it's here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_xO_wHnAz8

Recommended viewing!

I have always had tuning problems with my RB4 when using the capo. I always used the 12th fret harmonic method when placing the bridge but would always have to "rock" the capo and adjust the 3rd string. Well I tried the method described in the video last night and "voila" problem solved! I dont even have to adjust the 3rd string with the capo on and I dont have to rock the capo. The bridge is now angled with the  4th string side closer to the bridge. I tried the same thing on my RB75 and I didnt change anything from the 12th fret harmonic method, but I didnt have the same inotnation problems with it as I did with the RB4. That goes to show that every neck is different.

Marty

I have my bridge adjusted now. Thanks for all the help folks! I had gotten this back from the dealer after I requested some changes as it wasn't set-up correctly. It wasn't much better the second go 'round. So, I needed help.

I have the bridge at 13 3/8th inch from #12 to leading edge of bridge. I REALLY moved that thing. I was thinking maybe 1/16 inch adjustment at the MOST and it was well/well beyond that.

The fretted notes on 12 nearly exactly match the open notes. I haven't tried a capo tuning yet. I'm pleased enough to have acomplished the above!

Edited by - SReynolds on 02/08/2012 05:05:10

That video is amazing! An outstanding example of video tutorial. Well worth watching.
All the best from Bill.

Did you get it set up yet?  I'm new to banjo, too, and just replaced my bridge.  It had to go much further back than I expected.  I just kept testing at the 12th fret and scooting until it was in tune.  By the way, I don't think you would measure to the MIDDLE of the 12th fret (meaning the dot inlay).  I think you would measure from that actual FRET, because it acts like a nut.

The middle of the fret. Not on one side or the other. Right up on the top of it.

I had to start moving it and it wasn't working. This was just set up/new banjo. I thought I was doing it wrong. I had to move it 1/4" towards the tail. 1/4 inch. I still don't believe it............

I have 13 3/8 from that fret to leading edge of bridge.

In a perfect world proper bridge position would be exactly twice the distance measured between the back of the nut and the middle of the 12th fret.  In the real world, factors like string size, action height, neck relief, head tension, fretting technique, and string height at the nut will require that the bridge be placed more than twice the distance measured between the back of the nut and the 12th fret.  I think the average, in my experience is around 3/16".

As always, YMMV.