I'm putting a 'finish' on a  friends banjo that her late husband had built, but not "finished". I noticed there were a couple of splits running length-wise, in the ebony fretboard. They're only 1/4" to 3/8' in length. I don't know how long they've been there or if it happened recently. Any ideas on how to fill these splits? If these are from stress, I expect they will keep growing. He did'nt put a "truss rod" in the neck, but a metal bar instead.

Appreciate any advice.....

RatLer

Your in luck,ebony is easy to fill, order this from StewMac

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Glues,_adhesives/Stewart-MacDonald_Epoxies.html 

One would surmise that if there is a way to adjust the so-called metal bar to release any tension that may exist and then commence setup from there, it could be the preventive measure from additional splits.  If there is no tension then great.  At this point it sounds as though the presence of tension is still a mystery.

i doubt it's tension that caused the crack.. More likely just changes in humidity. I'd use the Stew-mac black superglue. Just run a tiny drop over the crack, squeegee it in with a single-edge razor blade, Wait until it cures, scrape off any excess with a clean single-edge razor blade.

Thanks, guys. I think I'll try stew-mac's black epoxy. BeeJee, I tend to agree about the humidity issue. This is Ohio after all...always an abundance or lack of it...

Yes, there is no reason to think there is any tension issue at all with the cracks. Its ebony, ebony cracks EASILY with temperature and humidity issues.

People forget that instruments like MARTIN guitars used a NON adjustable neck for about a century and a half... and no stress fractures in the fingerboards... just sometimes from weather, 

Follow Bobs great advice and dont worry.

Scott

Edited by - desert rose on 01/30/2012 06:53:02

Well, this just happened to me on my Burns banjo. Crack in ebony fingerboard. I am thankful about this post, which provides a good answer.

The "HangOut" is the GOTO place for sure...

This is a situation where...<gasp!> ....some good oil like sesame, can be rubbed in to woods like Ebony, to help preserve it from 'dry rot'. Once you fix these cracks, occasionally treat it with some proper oil to maintain it.

Banjophobic...would mineral oil work as well?

PS......I'm finishing the "wood" with tung-oil. How would that work on the ebony?

Edited by - RatLer on 01/30/2012 09:37:04

quote:

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Originally posted by RatLer

Banjophobic...would mineral oil work as well?

 

PS......I'm finishing the "wood" with tung-oil. How would that work on the ebony?

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Mineral oil isn't horrible, but sesame is better. I also would not seal the fingerboard with a penetrating 'hard' oil finish like tung or linseed.

Bob's advice is solid, best and easiest method...check this out to keep the fretboard in shape, was recommended to me by John Bernunzio years ago and I swear by it, especially with older jo's...

http://bernunzio.com/product/dr-ducks-ax-wax/

Edited by - RG on 01/30/2012 10:51:00

quote:

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Originally posted by RatLer

Banjophobic...would mineral oil work as well?

 

PS......I'm finishing the "wood" with tung-oil. How would that work on the ebony?

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 A rule of thumb someone gave me is that the best protection results are achieved by using oils & waxes from the same origins/type of material that you want to protect.  This simply means, mineral oils for metals, animal oils for leather, plant oils for wood.  

Avoid dermal contact with mineral oils in general; especially on the fingerboard as it could have serious health effects to the person using it.

I use kitchen grade olive oil on my ebony fingerboards, and to they remain in good order, especially considering that they're fretless and strung with steel.  In addition, to my shame, these banjo's live in an abusive household, being moved from inside to outside, left in my car or caravan [aka vehicle & trailer].   On top of that the UK has quite a temperamental weather system with big swings in relative humidity.

hope this helps

Chris

AH... not exactly

When I had my column at Banjo Newsletter a few years ago I did a VERY detailed article about fingerboard treatments

You need to know that virtually ALL and I mean all fingerboard oils sold commercially worldwide are... mineral oil. Mineral oil is made for human consumption in all countrys. The "lemon oils" sold both for furniture and fingerboard application are indeed as much as 99.98% mineral oils. The lemon products and all the other are around .02 to 2% lemon and are for the benefit of your nose and nothing else

While there may be mineral oils that shouldnt come in contact with people, if the product is designed as such its NOT a health issue at all and has been tested before being offered for sale. AND with half century or more of these products universally used in the music world, there is NO bad effect on the instrument

As a side note, I use sessame oil and have for three decades on my instruments and my work but I know the fingerboard oils sold are harmless to people and instruments

Scott

Edited by - desert rose on 02/01/2012 04:09:08

Quote:

A rule of thumb someone gave me is that the best protection results are achieved by using oils & waxes from the same origins/type of material that you want to protect. This simply means, mineral oils for metals, animal oils for leather, plant oils for wood.

Avoid dermal contact with mineral oils in general; especially on the fingerboard as it could have serious health effects to the person using it.

I use kitchen grade olive oil on my ebony fingerboards, and to they remain in good order, especially considering that they're fretless and strung with steel. In addition, to my shame, these banjo's live in an abusive household, being moved from inside to outside, left in my car or caravan [aka vehicle & trailer]. On top of that the UK has quite a temperamental weather system with big swings in relative humidity.

hope this helps

Chris 

Thanks for the advice on the oils. Makes perfect sense , once you think about it...

Scott

good point & well made - the differences of names & eventual meaning in the same language!

rgds

Chris

The thing about the Mineral Oil didn't click with me...I coat all my tinware with it to prevent rust, and there is no ill effects.

This is sort of on the same topic.....   

Does anyone have knowledge/experience about whether the adhesive type used to fix the fingerboard can have an effect on potential splitting?  

rgds

Chris

A luthier here in town gave me piece of ebony scrap. He said to take sand paper and make some ebony dust and mix with Duco Cement. I tried it and filled in the splits...looks good!!

The fretboard on this old mandolin banjo that I am trying to restore has long splits. Does anyone have an opinion if the stewmac black epoxy would remedy this situation.  I am in the process of putting on a new skin head but also need a bold and nut for the tailpiece. Thanks, Yvette

fretboard cracks

another shot

The ebony dust and Duco cement seems to be working for the small splits that I filled....but I think I'd use the Stew-Mac epoxy on those. Otherwise, you'd be making alot of dust...!!!

I use ebony dust and Superglue (cyanoacrylate) to fill holes and cracks in ebony. You can sand it down 60 seconds after you apply it. Also, use a clean metal file to make your ebony dust - sandpaper can leave non-ebony grit in your dust. Practically invisible repairs in just a few minutes.

Edited by - sdfarris on 02/09/2012 11:23:41

I wondered if super-glue would work!!!!

Actually superglue and ebony dust is the prefered standard for these kind of repairs for most modern luthiers. Its much more durable and permnant than either duco or titebond and dust.

Scott

quote:

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Originally posted by RatLer

I wondered if super-glue would work!!!! Thank-you for responding.  I did end get some detailed information from a forum member and I feel comfortable making the repairs. I really appreciate the help.

'Yvette

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quote:

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Originally posted by desert rose
Thank-you for the advice. I did get some detailed information from another forum member and I am readying up to do the repair. I appreciate the advice.

Actually superglue and ebony dust is the prefered standard for these kind of repairs for most modern luthiers. Its much more durable and permnant than either duco or titebond and dust.

 

Scott

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