Banjo Hangout - Banjo Building, Setup, and Repair Forum Feed

Block Rim on Lathe

eric@banjohangout.org — Sat, 7 Nov 2009 09:01:59 CST

Hey guys, How do you mount a block rim to a lathe in preperation of turning? I am sure there are a number of ways and I would like to hear a few of your ideas and methods. Pictures would be a huge help. As always, thanks in advance for your answers. Don

Fitzroy Melody-jo 5 string

eric@banjohangout.org — Sat, 7 Nov 2009 06:09:07 CST

Hi....does anyone have any info on this Banjo as I've just bought it off E-Bay and go to pick it up on thursday when i'll post some pics....All i could find on the net was its about 1930's. ----------------------------------------------- Have you hugged your Banjo today ?

busted banjo (emergency!)

eric@banjohangout.org — Sat, 7 Nov 2009 03:46:43 CST

I never thought I'd actually mean it when I say "I busted a nut," but I most definitely mean it this time. It snapped this morning while I was tuning -- most definitely not over-tuning by any means! It just split in half and snapped off at the third string groove. So my banjo is at a luthier who specializes in ouds and other east and south Asian instruments. He wants to know what kind of wood to use and I don't have a clue as to what it should be. The banjo is a little Deering Goodtime and the nut was a hard plastic, I believe. Will teak wood work? It's pretty hard. Should I ask him for bone or ivory (there is a legal type of ivory here)? I'm in a jam -- please give me a shout as soon as you can, folks. Sincerely, Your hopeless step-child. BillyShake ____________________________ billyshake: The #1 Banjo Player on the Sub-Continent! (of course, that's assuming I'm the ONLY banjo player on the sub-continent)

Can i adjust the neck

eric@banjohangout.org — Sat, 7 Nov 2009 02:48:58 CST

Hello I have deering sierra .When i am playing up the neck i find the banjo is very tight and its hard to bend the strings. I was told by another banjo player that its possible to adjust the neck! Till this day I still cant comprehend how you can adjust a neck of a banjo . Another question to any seirra owners . I dont have any clips to attach a strap to the banjo. Does anyone use the brackets to connect a strap. My only concern is whether the brackets could take the weight of the banjo Any comments much appreciated and on that note thanks to all who have answered any of my other questions wris

Another head question

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 6 Nov 2009 19:41:37 CST

First off my head is to tight, but here is my question, is it normal for all strings to sound good except the first, which out powers the rest by a long shot. Is this common for a tight head or is something else the matter with it? As I mentioned earlier all the rest of the strings sound really good. Thanks

12th fret action?

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 6 Nov 2009 17:44:26 CST

Hello, I know it's subjective and I hope it doesn't sound dumb, but what would be the "average" or "typical" string height at the 12th fret for bluegrass picking? Thanks! Steve

Banjo Repair

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 6 Nov 2009 17:43:50 CST

Is there any one that works on banjo near Bartley WV?

FINGERBOARD REMOVAL

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 6 Nov 2009 17:15:02 CST

What's the best way to remove fingerboard?Tried the baking in sun on dashboard trick.Not much happened.Tinted windows must not be letting enough heat in.Or else I forgot to pay the bill to have sunlight piped in?

PEGHEAD BINDING

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 6 Nov 2009 17:08:48 CST

What's the best way to bind a peghead?

Need Info on Evolution of the Modern Banjo?

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 6 Nov 2009 16:30:29 CST

Hey banjo history buffs out there, I need some information. I'm going to "try" to give a a short talk at our local library on the banjo, specifically the "5-string" banjo. I might be addressing the "Geritol" crowd, and, maybe a few youngsters, however, I want to give these folks some straight scoop on how the 5-string came about. I'll start with the early gord type banjos, and, throw in the Joel Sweeney's addition of the 5th string, in the early 1800's. I'll try to give them an brief overview of the parts of the banjo, including the rim, the neck, tuners, etc.. Here's where I need your help. Can you guys give me some info of how the metal tone rings came to be part of a modern day banjo? About "when" did tone rings start showing up on banjos? 1800's? 1900's? Was there anyone or group of players, builders, etc., who came up with the idea of putting tone rings in banjos? Was it any particular manufacturer who started it? I'll take any info that I can get. Gary Phelps St. Louis, MO. 63129 2007 Stelling Sunflower Serial # 6393 Gibson Masterclone RB-250 with Sullivan Rim and Sullivan archtop.

Drum Dial for Clawhammer Open back

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 6 Nov 2009 08:52:16 CST

Hello to you all! Just bought a drum dial, and I'm wondering if you have any ideas about the correct tension for open back style banjo, as I've never had a drum dial before, some tips would be great. Now this might end up with a bunch of responses saying it all depends on you're preference and ear etc, but if anyone has used a drum dial and can offer any tips I would really, really appreciate it [:D][:D] I have a Wildwood with a fibreskyn head and a Bart Reiter special with a calfskin vellum I have heard that 92 is a good setting for a tight bluegrass head, any ideas about setting the head for clawhammer with the above banjos? thanks muchly again Shaun from the UK _________________________________________________________________________ When you want genuine music - music that will come right home to you like a bad quarter, suffuse your system like strychnine whiskey, go right through you like Brandreth's pills, ramify your whole constitution like the measles, and break out on your hide like the pinfeather pimples on a picked goose - when you want all this, just smash your piano, and invoke the glory-beaming banjo! Mark Twain ( ] )=====^===[: :}

Leveling/lowering frets

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 6 Nov 2009 08:43:39 CST

Some time ago I built a cheap tenor using a Gold Tone neck. I'm finding now that the frets are too tall and domed for comfortable play. I bought the proper tools from Stew Mac for leveling...basically a heavy steel square tube with machined flat side onto which one adheres Aluminum Oxide paper. I'm sure the proper way is to remove the neck and place it in a jig or vise...OK so far. Now, when using this tool, is it difficult to be sure that all frets get sanded down the same amount? My thought is that frets up near the nut may get less of the sanding action, so to speak, than ones in the middle and lower end. I do plan to tape the fb in between the frets to protect it. If any of you have experience in this please gimme some tips on how to do this. Thanks, Mark If there are no dogs in heaven then when I die I want to go where they went... Will Rogers

Best way to slot a 5th string pearl nut???

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 6 Nov 2009 08:36:07 CST

Any ideas or tips on how to cut a slot in a new pearl nut for the 5th string???

Building a case?

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 6 Nov 2009 06:39:30 CST

Winter is setting in, and I need a building project. I'm a kayak builder- this pic isn't one of mine, but gives an idea. [img]http://mysite.verizon.net/NGC704/newOI/images/wet_deck1.jpg[/img] I think I'll build a cedar strip hard case for my banjo. Any thoughts or ideas? Yes, I fully realize the irony of putting a $300 Goodrtime in a case I'd sell for about $1000.... The case will get beat up and scratched, but will be tough as nails. What ya think? Any resources out there for building a case? Thanks

Let the banjo "RING"... Dam Vertical Bridge

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 6 Nov 2009 04:26:10 CST

OH me, oh my... finished the "Jerry's Dam Vertical Bridge" for my Deering open back...wow what a difference!! Clear tone, more volume, longer "ring" (might be calling this wrong)... the sound of the string lasts longer than before using the horizontal bridge ...way, way better than the ebony topped bridge that was on there before. [:p] I made the bridge out of red oak, cap is made from red oak too, followed the directions provided by xnavyguy here on the BHO. The only thing I changed was the bridge (all carefully measured to be the same demensions h/w) weight was "slightly" over the balancing penny. As soon as the 3/16" brass tone ring arrives, I'll install that along with my new Remo Rennaissance Head... and put the Vertical Dam Bridge on... then see what happens. (might even take the time to put the MinWax on the bridge...right now it's plain). Quick question for you:.... when you pick a string (clawhammer) and you count 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9....about how far can you count and still hear the note?? [?] Keep on the "sunny side"! Don

Bela Fleck String gauges

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 6 Nov 2009 04:11:57 CST

Hi all Okay this has probably been asked a million times but... [:I] What string gauges and bridge does Bela Fleck use? Thanks! Tom She's talented. See this is true talent..this is the stuff that needs to be on the radio...not that edited fake shit - Youtube user on Sierra Hull http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewprofile&friendID=161632859 www.bluegrassfamily.ch

tropical climate care?

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 5 Nov 2009 21:06:24 CST

Hey folks. A friend brought my little goodtime open-back from the States recently and I'm quite happy to have it. I'd been playing a very very old thing on loan prior to that. But I've realized quickly how drastically the climate affects this banjo. I have only a soft case in which to keep it and I can't think of a way to at least somewhat protect the banjo. I also play it a LOT so obviously I can't keep it stored in a cool dry place...of which there are none anyway. We're just leaving the rainy season here in southern India and it'll get hot and dry soon. I also split my time with Cambodia which has somewhat different rainy seasons, so I'm basically in either very hot and dry or hot and WET in quick cycles. What kind of damage is this doing? I know it's not an expensive banjo, but when it's your only banjo, it might as well be worth a million dollars, ya know? I certainly feel that way about it, anyway. I need to buy a hard case for it anyway, so maybe there's a really good case I could buy? I'll be home in North Dakota for a spell this Christmas (first time in a couple years -- I'm going to freeze) so I could buy a decent case while there if that would help any. I'd appreciate any advice or info you can offer. Thanks. ----- Oh, I forgot to mention that the strings also go bad pretty quick. That from the wet air, ya think? If I can find that fast fret stuff, will that help? ____________________________ Am I the only banjo player in India?

which tone ring for ome grubstake?

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 5 Nov 2009 20:45:07 CST

first time on BHO and a new-bee to the banjo. i have a 1970 something ome grubstake banjo and was interested in replacing the tone ring. any suggestions on which tone ring would be best for my banjo? thanks.

Settling down the fifth string...

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 5 Nov 2009 20:43:12 CST

I'd like my fifth string not to be as loud as the other strings when I'm playing... It seems to drown out the melody notes just a little too much. I placed a little piece of paper underneath the fifth string just on top of the fret below it. It seems to still allow it to ring, but not be as loud. Is there a better way of accomplishing this feat? "I swear—by my life and my love of it—that I will never live for the sake of another man, nor ask another man to live for mine." - Ayn Rand

Bridge slots

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 5 Nov 2009 18:41:25 CST

So when you make a bridge do you first cut some "normal" slots and then use the Stew Mac files to cut the slot for the particular string guage? I've seen many bridges (particularly the Emerson Sweet Power II) that looks like all of the slots are the same size. http://www.facebook.com/home.php#/pages/The-Lickety-Split-Banjo-Boys/181289677232?ref=ts http://www.flatpickerhangout.com/my/revellfa

Cracked neck

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 5 Nov 2009 15:11:16 CST

Just noticed a crack running from the nut to the start of the 2nd fret on my new (April this year) Gold Tone OB250+. No idea how it got there but need advice re repair or replacement options. Anyone know of someone in the Highlands of Scotland who can fix or replace it for me. Have mailed the guy I bought it from but the transport costs will be high each way. Is it possible for necks to crack and split all by themselves or do Ineed to consider killing one of my children who MAY have done SOMETHING. Be who you are and happy, life's a party, go and have some fun.

capo on nylygut classical strings?

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 5 Nov 2009 13:34:48 CST

I'm thinking of putting nylygut classical strings on a Chuck Lee Glen Rose banjo with an inverted whyte laydie tone ring. Can a capo be used on these strings and can the 5th string be tuned up to an A or spikes be used on them? Thanks Frank rider

more banjos in the works - sawing ebony

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 5 Nov 2009 12:51:11 CST

I am working at sawing up about 100 board feet of Texas ebony, most will be sliced into fingerboards and the rest into pieces for my block rims. I just put a set of Carter bandsaw guides on my bandsaw and a 1", 3 teeth per inch blade. Also bought new Forest blades for the table saw and miter saw,plus new blades in the planer. I've worked most of the week milling this lumber which was mostly 8/4 and 6' long. This wood is very heavy and hard, it is tough on both tools and your body. So far I have sliced up about 80 fingerboard blanks, they are dead flat and straight as an arrow. Hope the bandsaw blade holds up! [img][/img][IMG]http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i168/rbuniv/DSCN0373.jpg[/IMG] [img][/img][IMG]http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i168/rbuniv/DSCN0377.jpg[/IMG] [img][/img][IMG]http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i168/rbuniv/DSCN0379.jpg[/IMG] Richard Brown http://bordertownbrown.com

More banjos in the works -block rims

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 5 Nov 2009 12:26:22 CST

Here is a picture of some 11" mesquite and Texas ebony block rims in progress, I have enough pieces glued up for twelve rims but am shooting for twenty. This is three days work from milling the lumber, cutting the angles and glue-up, the sections still need to be laminated to form the rims. [img][/img][IMG]http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i168/rbuniv/DSCN0370.jpg[/IMG] Richard Brown http://bordertownbrown.com

Tightening my head!

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 5 Nov 2009 11:17:38 CST

This is driving me mad! What size wrench fits the Deering Goodtime banjo head? Not 1/4, too small, not 5/16, too big, not 8 metric, not 7 metric. I tried the screwdriver socket as well, too big. I'm reday to grag my trusty pliers, but that's a pain!

Friction pegs

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 5 Nov 2009 08:45:27 CST

I've recently acquired a Gibson UB-4 banjo uke and the original friction pegs are proving to be a bit of a problem. I know . . . . . . this is a banjo forum but I'm sure that there'll be someone here who has experience of such problems and maybe can help me! I could - and may well - change the pegs for modern geared ones but I would much prefer to stick to the original hardware if possible. The pegs are the original 1926 Gibson ones - they have a small spring which fits inside the barrel of the peg which is compressed down on the shaft when you push the knob down into the barrel by tightening the end screw. I don't see how it works really - I suppose the tension of the spring holds the whole body of the peg tighter and tighter as it is compressed? 3 of the pegs seem to work OK - so far. The 4th one slips even with the end screw tightened up fully. I could try to stretch the spring possibly but I am reluctant to try that and anyway it may damage the head. Perhaps someone has encountered this type of peg before - I've no idea what sort of pegs Gibson fitted to their early banjos - and can suggest some kind of fix for me? Help gratefully received. Bob J. (Cardiff, UK) Bob

1926 Gibson MB and other items on eBay

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 4 Nov 2009 18:08:01 CST

I am still cleaning out things from my shop. If you are interested, please check out my listings on eBay: I have a nice 1926 Gibson MB: http://cgi.ebay.com/1926-Gibson-MB-Mandolin-Banjo-Pre-War-working-antique_W0QQitemZ140357498251QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item20adf5758b Old Grover Tailpiece: http://cgi.ebay.com/Old-Grover-Banjo-Tailpiece-for-Gibson-Vega-and-others_W0QQitemZ140357467100QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item20adf4fbdc Old Banjo Armrest: http://cgi.ebay.com/Antique-Banjo-Armrest-early-20th-century-Vega-Gibson_W0QQitemZ140357469791QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item20adf5065f And a nice MASTERTONE pearl name block: http://cgi.ebay.com/Gibson-MASTERTONE-pearl-name-block-inlay_W0QQitemZ140356636095QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item20ade84dbf All starting at ONE PENNY and with No Reserve. I hope these will be a good deal for some of you. Thank you, Richie Dotson Craftsman, Teacher www.BanjoResource.com (757) 613-9627

Luthier near San Antonio - Austin area

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 4 Nov 2009 16:04:15 CST

Anyone here know of a good banjo luthier in the San Antonio - Austin area? I've asked Alan Munde and Cliff Fitch and have come up empty handed. Thanks! Cheers, RayD

JLS Tone ring

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 4 Nov 2009 15:12:43 CST

What is the difference between the JLS 4 &12?........

Fret replacement

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 4 Nov 2009 14:51:47 CST

It's time to replace the frets on my banjo and I was just wondering how difficult it is.

String spacing

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 4 Nov 2009 13:34:36 CST

How far apart should the nut notches and bridge notches be apart on a standard bridge and nut. Its only a flesh wound (The black knight)

New W/L tone ring on BC 350

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 4 Nov 2009 11:47:00 CST

I have been a little disapointed with the sound of my Gold Tone BC 350 since I bought it last year. I got it on the internet, and it probably sounds like it should, but I wanted something a little brighter. I talked with Bill Rickard and we decide that a whyte laydie tone ring might do the trick. I ordered one and put it in yesterday. WOW, this is a whole new banjo. It is brighter, and much cleared all the way up the neck. It just sounds wonderful. So now I basically have a 12 inch whyte laydie banjo and I am so happy with how it turned out. Thanks Bill. A great upgrade for less than a couple hundred bucks. Mike

Banjo repair/set up in SW MO or NW AR?

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 4 Nov 2009 11:27:37 CST

Looking for someone in SW Missouri or NW Arkansas who could help me out with some basic repair/set up work. I have a couple of inexpensive "project" banjos and would like someone to drill the neck lag holes at the proper angle (I've read up on doing this myself and am afraid of botching the job), drilling and tapering a fifth string tuner hole on one neck and some basic fret work. If you know anyone doing banjo repair work in the area please let me hear from you. Thanks, WC

Money well spent - Benefits of a project banjo

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 4 Nov 2009 10:18:38 CST

Looking back on my first year as a banjo owner I can already see where my time and money has been well spent or wasted. The time spent reading the banjohangout forums has been well spent. OK, it’s true that my playing would be improving more quickly if I limited my forum time and practiced the banjo during the extra 1/2 hour saved, but then I wouldn’t understand and enjoy the banjo nearly as much as I do now. That understanding has helped to carry me over the times of frustration and doubt that plague anyone who is just starting out on a new instrument. Banjo books and DVDs have been a great help of course though their usefulness is dependent on self motivation and mine suffer for lack of attention. That’s why I’ve been taking weekly music classes for the past year even though much of the same material can be found in DVDs. Once I sign up for a class I feel obligated to attend, which means that I’m more likely to practice at home. If nothing else a class ensures that I’ll practice and play for a few hours each week without fail. My third most useful learning tool has been having a ‘project banjo’ on which to swap out parts and test my rudimentary Luthier skills. My first banjo and still favorite banjo is a Deering Goodtime open back. Armed with that and a copy of Steve Huber’s Killer Tone DVD on banjo disassembly and a large ring binder of forum posts I started swapping parts and experimenting with it right away. After adding a scoop and drilling around at the neck for various reasons I got worried that I’d accidentally ruin it someday and got 2 other banjos to play at class. So now the Goodtime is my anything-goes project banjo to test new ideas. So looking back I see that having a modestly priced banjo of simple construction to experiment on has been a wonderful learning tool. It’s not so expensive that I’m scared to damage it and it’s not my only banjo so I’m not dependent on it working all the time. I’ve had the neck off a few times and swapped heads and cut the peg head and changed the tuners and mounted a pickup, things I’d might not have done on my GT BG-250 if that were my only banjo. I had a similar experience some months ago when I bought an old cheapie mandolin for $30 from someone on the forum. It had some minor cracks and slight separation of neck and a bent tailpiece (all problems were described clearly in the advertisement). It was great fun to work on! Sealed and stained the cracks, trimmed the tongue of the raised fretboard, straightened and remounted the tailpiece, reset the bridge re-cut the saddle slots and smoothed the frets. By the time I bought a decent entry-level Kentucky 380 mandolin the following month I had a much better idea of how to work with it. Thanks for selling me that old mandolin Bill, it was the best $30 I’ve spent in a long time and I passed it onto a young friend of my son to experiment with. John Piper

Putting veneer on a rim

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 4 Nov 2009 09:27:51 CST

Hi All, I am just curious if anyone has tried to apply a very thin veneer to a rim and if you did how did you do it, how did it turn out and did you do inside an out. I have an old rim I've though about trying. Thanks Larry Learning a new skill takes time, patience and practice. Also it is very important to stay hydrated

which head to order

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 4 Nov 2009 08:49:33 CST

I'm looking to tinker with my old Gold Tone CC-100r. If I were to order the renaissance head off janetdavis which one should i get, medium or high crown? thank you ben

Setting up a Gold Tone WL-250

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 4 Nov 2009 07:22:55 CST

I bought this banjo about a year ago. There isn't a lot of open back banjos around here in the woods of Sweden, so i didn't have the opportunity to try a variety of instruments. This is actually the only banjo i have ever played. As my playing improves I find that the sound i'm getting from the instrument isn't really what I like. I find it way too bright and thin. I would like a more distinct sound with less sustain and less high overtones. It was fitted with a Renaissance head, light steel strings and a standard bridge. I have changed to heavier strings wich i like better. I have also loosened the head. But it's still not quite what I want. A couple of weeks ago I changed to Aquila nylguts and a minstrel style bridge. I like the feel of the nylguts, but the sound is too thumpy and choked. When I play with the band my banjo can't be heard next to the mandolin and fiddle... And i really miss the "metallic" sound. What is the next thing to try? Calfskin + steel strings? A brighter head + nylguts? Buying a new banjo isn't an option right now... Anders

Inlays almostr done.

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 4 Nov 2009 07:13:30 CST

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v653/boywithflowers/100_1194.jpg[/IMG] Should I add a name? I don't know...what do ya'll think?

lower action

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 4 Nov 2009 06:33:50 CST

I need to lower the action on my Savannah Travel Banjo. The tail piece is as low as it gets. It has one dowel post, and a truss rod. Can anyone explain how I can do this myself? Thanks in advance, Eric "sometimes the light's all shinin' in me, other times I can barely see", RH Pagan by Nature

Changing Tuners

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 4 Nov 2009 05:57:14 CST

I just bought a geared fifth peg and want to install it in place of my friction peg. How hard is it going to be? It is a pretty cheap banjo, a Rover i bought new for a hundred bucks to learn on. The friction peg keeps slipping and its very frustrating. Anyway, how do I remove the old peg and install the new one? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Sean

Schaller "D" Tuners vs Keith

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 3 Nov 2009 14:44:01 CST

I have had three sets of Schaller "D" tuners over the years (2nd & 3rd strings only). One set was on my old Gold Star GF-85 that worked great but I no longer own. One set on my Gibson Standard that work great, but the set on my Stelling I have, the thrid string tuner sticks and refuses to move freely, and will not work no matter what I seem to do in setting it, no matter how much I fuss with it, I cannot get it to travel from one key to the next. My question is: Is there a way to get in side to lubericate the gearing or do I just have a bad tuner? I bought the Banjo used a while back and have no idea how old the tuners are. I am thinking of replacing it but looking for any thoughts or ideas on whether to stay with Schaller or move to the Kieth Tuners at a much higher price? Any thoughts or help would be much appreciated, Thanks. Big John Big John, 1987 Gibson Earl Scruggs Standard 1986 Stelling Sunflower

New Website

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 3 Nov 2009 07:59:03 CST

I finally got onto the web, with a simple website. Its a work in progress. If anyone has time, please check it out and give me feedback. Thanks-[:)] Opps-sorry, the paste must have cut off some letters in the URL. Here's the corrected one: http://hstrial-noteablerepair.intuitwebsites.com/index.html

Man this neck will be the DEATH of me! HELP!

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 3 Nov 2009 07:44:13 CST

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v653/boywithflowers/100_1177.jpg[/IMG] So as you can see there is some fingerboard missing. It broke off while I was trimming the heel on my router. Any suggestion on fixing this. I have over come a lot with this neck already and don't think this is the end of the road. I'm sure there's a way. I had a few thoughts. The first was to bind it then fill the gap with glue and ebony dust. I could always rout a deeper channel and put thicker binding but that's a last resort. Because I really hate the way recording king banjos look. My last thought would be sell it to a luthier and start over. Any one else have some help they can offer boy I would love it! Thanks. Eddie P.S. if that last resort comes to play, it's a curly maple neck with ebony overlay and cap, double cut peghead. Flat heel cut. If I get it fixed it will turn into a 2 piece heel cut. Thanks.

String Buzz at nut

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 3 Nov 2009 07:29:09 CST

I've been working on this 70's Masterclone banjo to get it to play & sound its best... Iv'e got it sounding pretty good and playing perfect... The only problem is a buzz on the low D string when played open.. When fretted on the 1st fret it's fine.. If I put a thin piece of leather in the nut groove, it gets rid of the buzz & works fine... What is a better, non-visable, easy solution for this nut groove? Thanks... [:)]

RB-250 sound improvements

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 3 Nov 2009 05:21:27 CST

Hey everyone, I'm not completely happy with the sound of my 250 but don't really know what I don't like about it. I think I am going to start by changing out the Grover Bridge and maybe the strings. I know everyone's ear is different, but what bridges have you found that work well on the 250? I thought about trying a scorpion or a Snuffy Smith. I have a Snuffy on my Fender and it seemed to really wake it up. The best I can say is, the 250 doesn't seem to have the power and the tone I'm looking for. Any suggestions?? Randy Gibson RB-250, Fender FB-59 Has it ever occurred to you that nothing has ever occurred to God?

Ome openback silverspun -- action & high bridges

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 3 Nov 2009 04:35:18 CST

Hey folks, I just got a used 11" Ome openback. The action is quite low. I put a 3/4" bridge on it and the action is still right around 1/16". This banjo has no frailing scoop and I don't want to scoop it as it has inlay in those upper frets. I realize I can gain some action with the co-ord rods, but would like to avoid that if possible. I play clawhammer and have my other banjos setup to about 5/32". It seems that to achieve that height with a higher bridge alone would cause me to need a 15/16" bridge. I could have one made, but is there any issue with stability or mass to consider? I could also very slightly slot the holes in the rim and bring the neck back some and gain a little bit there (as 1four5 has recommended in other threads). The neck heel is forward of the back of the pot and the end of the fingerboard almost completely above the notch in the tension hoop, so it'd still look good. Not completely keen on whittling on the rim -- I figure Ome knew what they were doing when they set the neck there -- but it does seem like a simple and stable way to gain some action. If there is no issue with a super-tall bridge, I'll go that route. If co-ord rods or shifting the neck back need to be done in combination with a tall-but-not-stratospheric bridge, I'll do that. BTW -- neck relief looks fine and with 1/16" action it plays cleanly up and down the neck. I just need more height for the right hand, and I like to play over the neck if possible. All suggestions and opinions are welcome! I need your help, folks! Thanks, Brian

10 3/4 inch tension hoop

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 3 Nov 2009 04:13:38 CST

Can anyone tell me where to find a 10 & 3/4 inch tension hoop? I purchased an old tenor banjo pot and need to replace the hoop. The old hoop is too thin and separating at the joint. No long ago, I read a post where someone on the hangout said they could supply any size, but I've unable to relocate that post.

Probably going to need some help

eric@banjohangout.org — Mon, 2 Nov 2009 22:06:06 CST

Hi All, My new BC 350 neck came today[:D] but I decided not to use the rim I had [:(]and ordered a new one a white laydie rim and tone ring. The neck comes with no holes in the heel so after I get the pot all assembled The neck will need to be drilled and set-up that's when I'll need some help. Do any of you Missouri folk know a good luither around the St. Charles or St. Louis area. I know Colin at music folk does set-up but I don't know to what extent. If you know of a good web site I could read up on it that would be helpfull to (in case I have to do it myself) or I guess I could send it off to someone. All advice is welcome. While I'm waiting for the rim I'm going down to music folk tomorrow and do some looking and asking questions. Thanks Larry Learning a new skill takes time, patience and practice. Also it is very important to stay hydrated

Golden Gate Heads

eric@banjohangout.org — Mon, 2 Nov 2009 18:55:56 CST

Anyone have any specs on Golden Gate branded heads? Are these Ludwigs?

Replacing fingerboard fret markers

eric@banjohangout.org — Mon, 2 Nov 2009 15:46:42 CST

I currently have a Deering Goodtime 2 Classic. It is a great-sounding instrument, but there is one glaring problem: The dark brown fretboard has BLACK fret markers, which are damn near invisible. Is there a semi-easy way to replace these? I am sure I can buy the right-sized fret markers from Deering, but don't really know how to go about removing the old markers, or even if it's feasible. Thanks, ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- There is no growth in the Comfort zone, and no comfort in the Growth zone. "The instrument proper to them is the Banjar, which they brought hither from Africa." -Thomas Jefferson ( )======"===::}