Banjo Hangout - Banjo Building, Setup, and Repair Forum Feed

Dying wood veneer

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:23:25 CST

I am in the process of restoring and old English banjo that the peghead is made of two pieces. They are joined as a straight butt joint across the middle of the 'waist'. Both pieces are different woods. I want to over lay the peghead with some maple veneer dyed black to cover this. My question is... can I stain the veneer both sides then glue it to the peghead, so that when I come to trim it to shape I don't have to redye the edges?

installing truss rod to be adjusted from heel

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 13:41:17 CST

I'm installing a StewMac HotRod truss rod and I'm wondering about how to install it so it can be adjusted from the heel. The overall length of the neck from the nut to where the heel meets the rim is about 19-1/2", but the truss rod is only 18". If I put the adjustment nut at the heel end, the rest of the rod won't traverse the entire length of the neck. If I try to make the truss rod start at the nut, the adjustment will be way up in the heel. Is that OK?

Sustain: Single / multi strings

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 12:52:28 CST

I have a Countryman Pro openback. It is my first upgrade and I am very interested to learn about setup. It has planetary tuners and a tone ring, so I think the quality is reasonable. I have tightened the rennaisance head and put on a slightly better bridge. If I pluck a single string the sound seems to go on for a long time. If I damp that string some sound continues for the same period of time. I can only assume the other strings are vibrating. Or is this the tone ring? There seems to be two issues here, both of which would seem to compromise the definition of the individual notes: The long sustain and the lack of insulation between strings. Is this what those stepped bridges are for? Or is it about stuffing socks against the head? I'm not sure whether prolonged sustain is a good thing. I don't like it much. I like other aspects of the sound. Anyhoo - could someone give me a clue on how to control sustain? Thanks in advance Confused! Paul

Installation of StewMac Hot Rod®

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 09:49:25 CST

I've just read the instructions for installing the dual acthin StewMac Hot Rod®. If I'm understanding this correctly, it's held in only by silicone sealant applied to just the brass nuts that join the two rods at each end? AND,,,, that's really just to prevent rattling? Am I missing something?

You DON'T need to spend big $$$ for great sound!

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 09:43:33 CST

I have recently learned this valuable lesson. When I decided to start my own band a few months ago, I discovered that I would need to sell my best banjo to raise some capital. So, away went my Fitch Palomino. After purchasing some band necessities, I still needed a good banjo. I had already acquired a Cox Rim/JLS #4 (fitted by Hatfield) Pot assembly with 1960s Gibson Hardware and a new American Banjo Company Head from another hangout member, so I purchased the following parts out of the remaining capital: Gold Star GF-85 neck and resonator, and Grover Champion Friction Tuners This banjo really rocked when I put er' together. I think it gives the most bang for the buck of any combo around. Here is a link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKUIORgRA1A I know, I know, I need to invest in some better tuners, but that is coming... Still, I learned a valuable lesson--with a little know-how and the knowledge that I have gained from being a hangout member, I was able to put together a low-cost jo' that can stand up to any other banjo in town! Many thanks to all who made this joy possible. p.s. a little thanks also to Jason Skinner for providing the framework for what would become my version of "Keep My Skillet Good and Greasy" in the above video! Let me know what you all think

Skin Head Installation in Northern VA

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 07:45:51 CST

Can anyone In the fairfax area install a real skin head for me? Thanks. Eddie

Parts for a 79 Ode D

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:08:07 CST

I just got a 79 Ode D that is missing a resonator thumbscrew and a hook nut. The nut appears easy enough to replace, but the thumbscrew is different than the Gibson copies sold at places like Janet Davis (they're shorter). Does anyone know where I can find one of these? Thanks

Optimum rim to bridge distance ?

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:54:39 CST

Here is a question that I'm sure has been discussed before but it is one that I will pose to you builders out there. I am having a neck made for a Whyte Laydie style pot (to replace a "replacement" neck). I am considering shortening the neck (as opposed to the original WL neck) by about 1/2 inch in order to make it just a tad easier to play when standing up (long reach for the old left arm!). I want to keep the original scale (26 3/16") which would move the bridge 1/2 inch closer to the rim. I imagine this may affect the WL tone somewhat, but what can I expect from a 1/2 inch move? Where does one see "decreasing returns" as the bridge is moved closer to the edge? Has anyone found an "optimal" distance? My style is old-time clawhammer and I like the WL tone. I moved the bridge 1/2 inch closer to the edge on my current setup and really could not tell much difference(of course the scale was then "off" but I wanted to get an idea of the tone differential) Any ideas?

crooked neck

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:48:39 CST

I took my resonater off and looked down the truss rods then down the neck. The neck was not straight with the rods. The neck is flush against the pot so is this a problem. Will it affect tone.

I kind of figured it out...

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:46:17 CST

So I'm sure Jason does his a lot different (and better), but I think this will work out nice and do what it needs to do. If not I'll replace it with a metal co rod. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v653/boywithflowers/100_1288-1.jpg[/IMG]

Stelling Guys...HELP...My 'Red Fox' Won't Bark!

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:11:39 CST

Hello, guys! Well, I have a 2-year-old Stelling Red Fox Deluxe model here...with really low playing hours and was pretty-well pleased with the factory setup as provided by Geoff Stelling himself just prior to shipment. ...I was saving this more spectacular 'Red Fox' for playing out someday, as my Gibson Retro 4...(which sounds GREAT)...is generally my day-to-day practice and 'workhorse' banjo. But, being a brand-new banjo with nearly 2 years setting (mostly) in the case...and with the factory set-up now somewhat 'diminished' what with time, environment, storage, etc....I'd decided the neck on this Stelling needed a little 'tweaking'...plus a new set of Stelling strings so that I could at last begin to really use her! Also...I now desired a very slightly lower action on the treble strings, although the fourth and fifth were still quite fine. So I took her in to a local, and well-known stringed instrument tech (whom I have visited for some years now)...as I also own some guitars and he always did fine work...at least up until NOW?! ...He claimed he was quite practiced with servicing banjos and came well-recommended besides. So I took her in without consternation and he had her for about 10 days. Anyway, I got the 'Fox' back last week and I was initially pleased...that is until I played on it for awhile and discovered that my 'mighty Fox' suddenly sounded...mighty SMALL! That is to say...had a MUCH smaller VOICE! It plays with but little 'bark' and just isn't resonant...especially as you play up the neck. In fact...my Gibson Retro 4 can now pretty-well 'smoke' this Red Fox...and you Stelling owners know full-well...that this is just NOT as it should be!!! As it now stands...I've heard $500 student banjos that sound better and play with more authority than my $5,000 (VERY low-hours) Fox Deluxe! So, what gives here? Surely it can't merely be that the relatively 'low-playing hours'...haven't yet 'allowed this beast to 'open-up'??? I've read from someone on The Banjo Hangout who mentions that 'Alan Munde' recommends setting the tailpiece on the Red Fox banjos "UP as high as possible". Anyway, what does this 'tailpiece UP' imply? (I wonder if this might be a factor as the tech may have readjusted the tailpiece during his ministrations???) The banjo, as it is now...is quite playable...but it just sounds so 'dead'. Increasingly muted and plunky...especially as you play up the neck after about the fourth or fifth fret. This 'Fox' now has little resonance and sounds so thin and weak...a Red Fox with almost no 'bark', thin treble and very little low-end 'growl'. And this one has the Tony Pass rim, no less! I would surely be appreciative of any of you 'Stelling guys'...specifically you Red Fox owners who can offer any seasoned insight or explain what this "tailpiece UP to maximize tone" adjustment thing is all about, as I struggle to gain an understanding as to what has happened to my banjo. 'Cause she formerly did sound MUCH better after I initially took delivery from Geoff Stelling! A final word as I appeal to fellow Stelling owners for more 'experienced' input here. As you probably can tell...I am no expert banjo adjuster and have no real training or hands-on experience in setting these complex instruments up...other than to set the head tension, keep the beast in tune and change the strings!!! (So, having mentioned THAT)...thanks in advance, fellas...for whatever advice you might kindly offer!

nylgut

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 18:08:37 CST

How long does nylgut strings last?

Quick Detach Strap??

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 18:00:26 CST

I have a very comfortable Levy sheepskin padded strap. It fastens around two hooks in two places-laces up. I like to case my instruments after playing-how do you folks stuff a substantial strap in there? Is there a commonly used swivel snap and ring or other disconnect system you have found? I need the wide pad and would go nuts untying and re-tying the strap under the hooks-and would prefer a system that doesn't have a high risk of marring the instrument-"chicago screws" are as frustrating as the threading etc. Thanks, Ol'Lefty

Truss rod removal?

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 17:26:46 CST

I've got the fretboard off without any dramas: dashboard worked a treat, thanks Mike Gregory. What's the best approach to removing the truss rod out of its groove? I've had a look around frets.com but the closest article was just replacing the end of one without removing the fretboard. Cheers, Will [img]http://www.banjohangout.ws/banjohangout.org/storage/photos/large/22009-14071819112009.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.banjohangout.ws/banjohangout.org/storage/photos/large/22009-24271819112009.jpg[/img]

My new Snuffy Baucom Bridge

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 15:50:47 CST

I just got a Snuffy Smith 5/8" bridge with his Baucom spacing... and after ~15 minutes with it I think it is great. A few weeks ago I modified an old bridge to try out wide spacing because I have long fingers and the 'standard' width feels a little cramped for my hands. My modified bridge ended up being 2" (between 1st and 5th), and I felt it was too wide. The Snuffy is under 2", but noticeably wider than Crowe spacing... and it feels great. I ordered from JanetDavisMusic, but they only have the 11/16th height listed. A guy from the store said he could get a 5/8" from Snuffy, and a few weeks later it showed up at my door. Now I need two more! The photo shows the Baucom (installed) compared to the 'Standard'. Both are Style III. [img]http://www.danielkusko.com/snuffy_b.jpg[/img]

Gibson Strings Unavailable

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 15:35:48 CST

Does anyone know why Gibson banjo strings are currently unavailable? Tried asking JDMC but got no reply. I thought maybe someone may have heard.

Bridge

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 15:09:36 CST

I had a problem with overtones when I played...didn't sound right. I took my banjo to the local music store for their banjo guy to look at. He said it was the bridge. He said that there was too much string resting on it. He put a thinner (on top), less expensive bridge and it sounds great ! It had a Snuffy Smith II, now it has a $5 skinny. What's the deal...it does sound a lot better.

Finally finished my mahagony raised head

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 14:43:05 CST

I've put together a couple of raised heads using maple necks and resonators along with one piece flanges. I wanted to try one using a mahagony neck with a tube and plate flange. Now that I'm finally finished, I'm pretty happy with it. It's a Sullivan unplated 40 hole tone ring sitting on a cooperman rim. The tube & plate is also from FQMS. Silvio made me a "special" bridge for it. I modified the style 1 inlay pattern a little and added the "Hamiltone" block at the 12th fret. And of course a Kerschner tail piece. What else would you put on a raised head? All in all, it's a really sweet sounding and nothing fancy but fairly decent looking little raised head. [img]http://www.hamiltonbanjo.com/images/RH-1.JPG[/img] [img]http://www.hamiltonbanjo.com/images/RH-SIDE.JPG[/img] [img]http://www.hamiltonbanjo.com/images/RH-BACK.JPG[/img] [img]http://www.hamiltonbanjo.com/images/RH-NECK.JPG[/img]

Crystal Tone Ring?

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 13:17:08 CST

As I was doing housework today, I emptied out a lead crystal vase where I had been displaying some cut flowers. As I washed and dried it, I noticed what a pure ring it had when struck on the edge. I just got to wondering if anybody ever made a crystal tone ring? It would a lot cheaper to mold glass than brass. I guess if you dropped your banjo it would be a shattering experience....[:0]

Very Happy 34 Parallel User

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 11:23:45 CST

Yes, I am new and have limited depth of knowledge on banjos. I recently bought a Gibson Maple RB "something." No serial number, no Model number-nowhere to be found. Aside from the lousy peghead inlay, I liked it. I decided to buy the above Fults.-30 Series thinking it would ease learning from recordings by ear. A couple folks here criticized the purchase. I installed it this morning. It is a totally changed instrument-it is now crisp, balanced sustain; a nice bright tone without being ear-piercing-projection is "solid".I had made other changes(strings, bridges and fussed about with the action and tailpiece height) but kept good track of my impressions with those changes- none did the extraordinary transformation this tailpiece did. At least, in my case, the tailpiece did precisely what was represented-I truly consider it worth the investment. Now, I have not tried out the pitch change adjustment that drew me to it at first-if that is not as dramatic, I am still very happy-the price was about 15% of the investment in the banjo and I would do it again. Plus, it installed as easily as represented. Credit where credit is due. Ol'Lefty

Broken Neck

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 09:28:22 CST

Ive got a Vinatge Goldstar neck that broke off at the hanstop, completely in two.. The fingerboard and overlay are in great shap, would it be worth having them removed and put ion a neck blank

Pre stretching nylon - nylgut ?

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 08:29:03 CST

I always played with steel strings never nylon. I would like to build a nylon strung banjo. On the road if I broke a steel string I could change it and be back in action in 5 minutes. I can see a slight problem waiting days for a replaced nylon or nylgut to stretch out. My question is this... Can I ..PRE-STRETCH. a nylon or nylgut set of strings on a longer scale or long neck banjo, get them totally stable then cut them off and repackage them for use on a standard scale banjo. After replacing them on the instrument later will they automatically re tune and hold in tune instantly as before...Thank you ... Bob.

Question about where the headstock veneer and nut

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 08:15:59 CST

I'm working on my first banjo and have a question about where the headstock, nut and fingerboard all meet. In my Whyte Laydie plan drawing, it shows the headstock veneer cut so that it is in the same plane as the plane of the underside of the fingerboard with the nut sitting on top of the veneer and butting into the fingerboard. (top example in the attached sketch). In Roger Siminoff's book, he shows an angle cut in the headstock veneer whch makes the edge that joins the nut perpendicular to the plane of the underside of the fingerboard so the nut is sandwiched between the headstock veneer and the fingerboard. (bottom example in the attached sketch) Is there a "right" way? [img]http://www.banjohangout.ws/banjohangout.org/storage/photos/large/25962-1478919112009.jpg[/img]

Be careful of where you buy your wood!

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 07:22:53 CST

A friend sent me this link this morning concerning the federal government and their control of tropical woods used by musical instrument builders. [url][/url]http://www.impomag.com/scripts/ShowPR.asp?RID=12530&CommonCount=0

Good Setup in Cincinnati?

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 05:11:47 CST

Can anyone recommend a place near cincinnati or dayton Oh where I can take my banjos to get top notch setups? Thanks in advance!

Tonering patent?

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 02:11:53 CST

Do specific manufacturers have patents for a specific sounding tonerings? Or is a patent more like the enginering of a tonering and not the sound. I pretty sure stelling tonerings are patented. How about other manufacturers? I am also wondering if a manufacturer can put any unidentified tonering in a banjo and call it buy there brand name.

the "renaissance head"

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:43:50 CST

Anyone have any experience with the renaissance head? likes or dislikes ? im going to try one on my banjo (RK 85) to see how it sounds. sometimes it seems my banjer is abit loud for my tastes and has alot of sustain and loud ringing which i want to tone down a hair. so we'll see how a new head does.

calfskin vellum

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 22:52:58 CST

last night I fitted a calfskin vellum on to my banjo. First time I"d done it. Thing is, as the skin has dried I think I"ve put it on upside down, the smooth side is not on top. It felt the same when it was wet so I had to guess. I was wrong it seems. What I want to know is, apart from the feel and appearance, what are the other downsides of my mistake?

Removing the neck lag bolts...

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 19:58:53 CST

What is the best way to remove the neck lag bolts, so as not to damage the bolt threads? Does it matter what kind of wood is used to plug the neck bolt holes? Thanks, Steve

Miller premounted calfskin install in dry climate?

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 17:34:56 CST

I'm putting a premounted Bill Miller 11" vellum-processed calfskin head on my most recent banjo acquisition. I wondered whether attempting to put a head that was premounted in PA on a banjo in the Chihuahuan desert might require something more than what was described on the installation instructions. Does anyone think I might oughta wet and stretch the skin slightly? Or go ahead and crank 'er down? The instructions indicate that installation isn't much different than a plastic head, but I'm having my doubts... Thanks! BM

100 year old banjo set up

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 17:31:39 CST

I inherieted a 100 year old 5 string banjo, made by CW Wilcox in Hartford CT around the turn of the century. I took it apart and cleaned it up. Its beautiful, but its presenting me with some problems.... It has no truss rod, so I am thinking that steel strings may not be an option. It has a really old (possibly original) bone nut which I'd like to stick with, but the original bridge is in rough shape, so I'm looking for suggestions on that. I am switching out the original friction tuners because they just aren't practical. It has a more modern tailpiece, an I am thinking no knot.....? If anyone has some experience with an old instrument like this I would appreciate some ideas. Thanks. Tom

Pre war parts vs New Parts

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 17:05:01 CST

I know this may be VERY subjective, but I gotta ask--If one were to replace all of their modern banjo parts with pre war parts, with the exception of the flat head tone ring and neck(Im talking 5 string ) AND properly setup, would there be a noticable improvement in the tone? In other words, pre war presto tail piece, tension hoop, 1 or 2 piece flange, reso, reso hardware, rods, nuts, brackets, old rim or maybe FF rim, old tuners?? Do those parts really contribute THAT much to the overall sound? Or maybe another way of putting it, if I changed all of the above parts on my banjo over to pre war, would it really add a pre war "flavor" to the sound? Im already runnin for cover [:0]

Lower bridge, better action

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 15:55:30 CST

I had asked last week about what string height should be, and got great anwers. Upon placing a straight edge along my neck I found out that it has the tiniest but of up-bow, which I think is acceptable. (Less than the thickness of the third string if I hold the third string down at the first and 22nd frets and look at how close the string is to touching the frets.) I felt that my action was too high, so the shop where I bought my OME suggested a shorter bridge. I was skeptical, but figured, "Why not try it?" Dropped 1/16" off the bridge height and it made a HUGE difference in action! Now I can fret chords up the neck much faster due to more efficient movement of my fingers not having to move up/down as much. The sound was unchanged, also, at least not enough to notice in the amount of time it took to swap bridges. (About two minutes or less.) Anything else I should look for now that these changes have been made? Lachlan

Happy customer

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:04:57 CST

Greetings all, Just want to give a shout out to my luthier bud Ray Thraen of Elizabeth, Illinois. He just recently finished a major overhaul of my Arthur E. Smith Shellbourne II. To say I am happy with it is a vast understatement. This banjo is over 30 years old and has been played long and hard for all 30 years. I bought it new at Elderly in '79. Ray... refinished the neck oiled the 5th string tuner adjusted the other 4 tuners refretted the first 15 frets dressed/cleaned the fingerboard adjusted the action tightened the neck/pot connection tightened the tailpiece adjusted the bridge replaced stripped screws on the Shubb 5th string capo but other than that he didn't do squat[}:)] it plays as though it were brand new, only better cause I am so familiar with it from all those years of hammering on it great work Ray...the check is in the mail[B)]

How much can a good set up improve the sound?

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 12:22:56 CST

Thanks in advance for all your thoughts. I recently broke down my Gibson Blackjack to have some of the parts re-plated (it looks fantastic btw, thank you Ron Satterfield at Nashville Plating) and put it all back together again. I had it professionally set up and it now doesn't have the sustain or clarity up the neck that my ESS has. Question is, how much can a set up change the tone, sustain and clarity? Please understand, I don't want the BJ to sound like my ESS, but I do want it to perform as well as the ESS. Is that something a different set up can do? Loosen the head? Adjust the tailpiece? Different bridge? What do you guys think?

Frets wearing out?

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 10:47:06 CST

Hi! I'm offered a Gold Tone CC-100R+ from a seller from a site like eBay, who says that the frets are a little weary. He said it wouldn't affect the playability nor the sound, but I've read a review, where someone said that his frets got worn out, and buzzes started to appear. Since I'm going to use my banjo to recording, that scenario is a nightmare. A replacements of the frets would cost 200-300$. But still it's my only option, since I realized that it would get too expensive to ship a banjo to Sweden from US (I live in Sweden). The seller lives 2 hours from me, so I will be able to try it. But, what happens when frets get worn out, and why, how does it look? This is how his CC-100R looks like: http://213.132.112.100/images/57/5794089061.jpg Sincerely, AA

How to intonate your bridge

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 08:00:53 CST

Greetings all, Here is a video on how to intonate your bridge. http://www.banjohangout.org/myhangout/videos.asp?m=d&catID=&id=3525 thanks for viewing, Dennis

5th String Nut

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 05:05:51 CST

How do you cut the slot in a 5th string pip? The thinnest razor saw I have seen is .008. Is that tho correct width for the slot? Thanks, Steve Steve

It's so annoying!!!

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 19:25:47 CST

When you find out you missed some glue on a piece of wood by staining it and seeing that long light streak that's not taking the stain...LAME!!!!

Cox banjo head.

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 18:43:01 CST

Does anyone remember the Cox banjo head from the late 70's? The one with the reinforced hole? I found the one I had used back then, stored away all these years in my attic, but can't remember any of the details of its mounting position or other information. Any help or information would be appreciated.

Compensated Bridges

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 17:37:28 CST

I've read some good articles on banjo bridges- see Zepps >How come all banjo's don't come with compansated , or moon, bridges, as normal equipment?

MOONGEL

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 17:37:05 CST

I have been experimenting with this stuff to control some overtones on the A string of my tenor banjo that I got recently. I did not just want to " stuff a sock in it ". It is very controllable and you can get an idea of how the head is vibrating with input on different strings, you can place it any where and remove it with no residue. http://www.rtom.com/moongel.htm Charley Charles E.

Turkey Head

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 17:34:42 CST

So I had a crazy idea today. (I get lots of 'em.) I was thinking about preparing a turkey for thanksgiving dinner, and then I thought... "Could I save the skin, turn it into rawhide, and use it for a (small?) banjo (or drum) head?" I know folks make drum heads out of practically any kind of skin. Would a turkey work? Of course I would have to figure out if baking a skinless turkey was any different than a skinned turkey. (wouldn't want to ruin the feast) From what I've read, actually turning an animal skin into rawhide doesn't look that hard. Many years ago I worked as a meat cutter. I skinned many a chicken breast in those days, so I think I could get the turkey skin off cleanly... -- Rick O=='=+ http://www.cloudnavigator.com

Lag screw Angle? ADVICE??

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 16:56:31 CST

I am fitting up a neck-heel contoured for an 11" rim. The particular rim is an aluminum one from old-days StewMAc. To fit the neck-that is, marking for the drilling for lag screws, I gently clamped the pot in a leather covered vise, upright with the neck gap in the tension hoop at 12 o'clock. On either side of where the neck heel will rest, I applied the foam cored double stick tape. I then just aligned the neck and pressed down briefly. The neck was stable in place and I could concentrate on proper marking /center punching. The holes in the aluminum pot are 5/16th" diameter. I have a full set of transfer punches. Selecting the punch, I then was able to put it squarely into the rim material and with a bit of rotation and pressure obtain perfectly positioned marks(while the neck was temporarily stuck in place I verified with a dental mirror). The rim thickness was sufficient to keep the punch aligned and eliminated error from the 1/16th" thickness of the tape and the tape is dense enough to be a preliminary constant. I can set the neck either in contact with the tension ring or I can build in clearance;whichever seems to give best, lively tone. Question----- Now that the positions are marked-does one drill parallel to the fretboard plane or does one drill at the estimated neck angle?------ With the typical lagscrew, 10-32, there is plenty of wiggle room before lock-down with 5/16th" holes. But, I am not a slop person. I know I will fine tune the heel to rim neck position after complete full assembly so that bridge height and break angle can be correct;giving me the starting place for proper setup. Also, I will be horizontal boring, so shimming to get a baseline angle is easy. Thanks, Ol'Lefty (neck from "tsaisamlu" quality is a pleasant surprise;I chose one with the least Far Eastern visual appearance suggestion) "Don't pick it; it'll never heal"--with apologies, that always makes me grin.......... "I'm not crazy, I'm colorful." Struther Martin, "Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid"

Tips for using Feibing's Oil Dye

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 16:49:49 CST

I thought I'd create a thread where people could share thier tips for how they use Feibing's Oil Dye. Here's my tip - Don't fool around with Feibing's Oil Dye without wearing latex gloves; especially 15 minutes before you're supposed to go out to a dinner party. OK, there's my tip, now how about some more? How do you apply it? Brush or wipe? How long do you let it soak in before removing excess? Do you do multiple coats? Others?

What can happen to shipping crates

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 15:07:42 CST

Talk about a coincidence.......I shipped a banjo to Indiana this morning and decided to take a picture of one of my shipping crates (picture below). I try to make them pretty durable......make them out of luan panel (cheap wooden ply material that is used to make doors, about 1/4" thick, fairly stiff, fairly splintery), use an electric staple gun to fasten the edges to a square moulding inside the box, then reinforce the edges with duct tape. I thought I was doing pretty well with these crates.... have sent banjos all over without any problem and then this evening I got this e-mail from a friend in VA (Victor) to whom I sent a banjo recently..... Youtube clip says it all. [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgCPhq5Icps[/url] [img]http://www.banjohangout.ws/banjohangout.org/storage/photos/large/24670-152581517112009.jpg[/img] Mark Ralston "Now, people…. when it comes to the scientifical parts of music I know nothing about it, but I can play. Listen…. A man comes to this world naked and bare; He goes through life with troubles and care; He departs this life and goes we don’t know where; But he’ll be all right there if he lives all right here" ......... Uncle Dave Macon www.yellowstone-jewelry.com

Tuning Pegs for Vintage English Banjo

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 13:28:18 CST

Hi all. I recently acquired a Clifford Essex Regal 4-string, pretty beat-up, but playable. It's in need of a restoration really, but as I'm supporting a 5-string habit at the moment, not on the horizon for a while. Initially it played and tuned fine, but with use the tuning pegs have started to 'slip'. They're not friction pegs, but appear to be some form of 'Patent' gear assembly. But that's kind of the problem. They're 80 years old or so, and appear to be a an almost sealed unit. So what I'd like from you good folks? Suggestions! I know that I'm going to have to put my hand in my pocket (in the long term) to restore this wonderful instrument, but it seems a shame to put it to one side while I accumulate enough disposable cash to do so. Did I mention that the fitted tuning pegs are very (and I mean very) small Diameter (around 3-4mm, or 0.12-0.16 inches)? Your average stock tuning peg would involve redrilling (not a thrilling prospect). Anyway, any suggestion welcome - I'd rather use it than shelve it, but if that's the best option then so be it! Thanks in advance guys.

My Pieces Banjo Done

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 10:54:25 CST

Thanks All, for your help with all my questions while I was trying to assemble a banjo from different pieces. I used a goldtone BC 350 neck a Whyte Laydie rim and tonering a xnavyguy bridge and various used hardware from the HO classifieds. This project was both fun and challenging having to plug holes and relocate them and trying to line up the neck without proper tools to hold it in ;place while your are trying to mark where to drill the holes. Taking all this into consideration it turned out very nice and sounds good. Here are a couple pics. Larry [img] http://www.banjohangout.ws/banjohangout.org/storage/photos/large/38212-15829717112009.jpg[/img] [img] http://www.banjohangout.ws/banjohangout.org/storage/photos/large/38212-115552116112009.jpg [/img] Learning a new skill takes time, patience and practice. Also it is very important to stay hydrated

INSTALLING NEW NUT

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 08:41:58 CST

I have been thinking about installing a new nut on my banjo how hard would this be, the one that is on there now is a hard plastic thinking about bone or pearl. Have been looking at the tools from Stewart -McDonald the vise and files the gauges and ruller, I know that is alot of money but would learn something in the process. What should I beware of or would I be a lot better off taking it to a luither and let him do it. Comments please, Gordie

Identifying a tone ring

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 08:37:19 CST

Do tone rings have stamps or identifying marks? I have one with nothing on it its a 20 hole brass tone ring is all I know. Its only a flesh wound (The black knight)