Banjo Hangout - Banjo Building, Setup, and Repair Forum Feed

Guitar fretboards used for banjo neck?

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 18 Jun 2013 14:31:12 CST

As I walk down sidewalks, train tracks, thru my house, etc, my mind is always looking at this and that and that and that, thinking "could I use that for a banjo project..." or hundreds of other things. Anyway I have this chair, with a piece on each side that I think would perfectly and easily make a banjo neck. Anyhow, my dilemma, or question I guess, is this: I have two busted-off acoustic guitar necks, with fret boards that are in good condition, and seem to measure to this prospective neck almost perfectly. One is a classical, shorter than a banjo neck of course, the other fretboard is from a dreadnaught and is about half there. Squaring them up, I'm confident I can make them seamlessly into one fretboard long enough to use on this board I'd like to use for a neck, which I'll add a pic of. Will the fret spacing be OK? Putting the fretboards up to my REAL banjo neck the spacing is almost perfect - right on in some spots, maybe 1mm off in others. Will this scale work or will I need to sand it down and re-set the frets that appear a little off. Also keep in mind I don't play up the neck at ALL, never really venturing beyond the 7th/9th fret. Whaty'all think? Here's a pic of the board I'm gonna use, not yet repurposed from my wife's chair lol...

Guitar fretboards used for banjo neck?

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 18 Jun 2013 14:30:41 CST

Guitar fretboards used for banjo neck?

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 18 Jun 2013 14:30:28 CST

New Free Android Head Tuning Tool

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 18 Jun 2013 14:20:06 CST

Drumalyser 2

Load this free application on your Android phone, set the phone near the banjo head, tap the head with your fingernail, and it immediately indicates the primary note frequency for you. Awesome little program. Give it a try.

Tuning a Banjo Head to G using Iphone Drum Tuning App. Help?

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 18 Jun 2013 13:20:10 CST

Hi,

So I just downloaded a Drum Tuning App on my Iphone. I heard that some people tune their banjo heads to G as nice sounding head tension, so I wanted to try it. But, I was wondering at what octave? I checked and right now I'm at B on the 4th octave and was wondering if I should go up or down (I think up but not sure). I just didn't want to spend my time going down or overtightening the head.

I just put some new higher tension strings on, so my head pressure is out of whack...I'm just not sure which way though.

action height for nylon string banjos

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 18 Jun 2013 08:52:12 CST

Hi, what is the preferred action measured at 12th fret for a nylon string banjo 1) to be played fingerpicking; 2) to be played clawhammer?

Thanks,
Jon

Best neck wood for silverspun pot

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 18 Jun 2013 08:07:28 CST

Hi folks,

What would give me the best old timey sound for a silverspun pot that was formerly a tenor banjo? Someone told me to us nylon strings. Good idea

But what wood would be best for the neck? Would walnut work as well as maple for a sweet Oldtime plunky sound?

Thanks,

Edna Mae

Banjo Set up

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 18 Jun 2013 05:38:39 CST

Hi everyone,

I've noticed when playing my vega tubaphone it sometimes sounds out of tune but when I hit the strings open its ok. The D string seems to be the worst on the second fret I was wondering is my action to high? The frets seem ok and the tail piece is not touching the head.

Thanks for any help

Best way to write my name on my Banjo?

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 18 Jun 2013 02:13:24 CST

I have two valuable banjos and they're both insured. I take either one or the other to jams and festivals in the car or on the bike, strapped to the saddle bags. I've made a large Aluminium tag for the case that attaches to the case handle to prevent accidental "theft" but I want to put my name, (address? phone?) on the instrument somehow, probably inside the resonator.

Is there a recommended method for doing this? I don't want to devalue the instruments but I feel uneasy about having no identifying marks on the instrument itself.

Suggestions?

New Bridge

eric@banjohangout.org — Mon, 17 Jun 2013 13:45:11 CST

I got my new Tim Purcell Ambrosia Red Maple bridge today and can't wait to put it on when I get home! It's my first non "came with the banjo" bridge and I'm really excited to see how it sounds. My question is, do I have to put new strings on when I replace the bridge? I would like to leave the existing one's on so I can really hear the sound difference without confusing it with new strings too.

Pricing Question – Adding a tone ring to a Gibson RB-100

eric@banjohangout.org — Mon, 17 Jun 2013 11:26:16 CST

I recently purchased a 1976 Gibson RB-100 for $800 and while I love the look, action and speed of the banjo, the tone leaves a little to be desired, especially compared to the RB-250 I sold while going through a divorce, but that’s another story. I really don’t know much about tone rings or the fact the RB-100 was built without one, but a few BHO members have told me that adding one will make the banjo tone sound much better. Without getting into the argument if it’s financially worth doing on this particular banjo I was wondering if any of you could give me a ballpark price. I know of a couple luthier’s around my area but wanted to get some opinions and price estimates from some BHO friends. Yes, I already know the’76 model came with a crappy black rim but I don’t want to get too far upside down on this project so I’ll just want to stick with the tone ring modification. Also, is the ’76 model a flat top or arch top and since it’s all right there which is the best way to go?

Thank you,

Doug

How to maker shoe brackets and tension hooks

eric@banjohangout.org — Mon, 17 Jun 2013 11:01:46 CST

Hi there,

Any pointers on how to make these things? The exchange rate is killing me. I have no option but to do it myself

Will appreciate any hint and tips

regards

Ian

Adjustable Tailpiece

eric@banjohangout.org — Mon, 17 Jun 2013 10:26:31 CST

Hello again,

Can someone tell me what advantage there is to an adjustable tailpiece as pictured. I understand the adjustment that increase the angle of the strings to the bridge, but this one has the ability to change the distance of the tailpiece to the bridge with the two thumb-wheels. This is the only tailpiece like this that I have seen.

Thanks.

Repair Man near Garner NC

eric@banjohangout.org — Mon, 17 Jun 2013 09:17:31 CST

I am currently in Garner Nc and I need a heel cut. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Seth

Finally, a banjo joke becomes reality.

eric@banjohangout.org — Mon, 17 Jun 2013 07:47:38 CST

So recently a guy brought me a banjo. I hit with a hammer. He was happy. I was happy. He paid me and got off my porch.

It was a minor repair of course, just an issue with high spikes. I hear so many jokes along those lines that I could hardly keep from laughing when it finally happened for real and just had to share.

Maybe the gentleman will let you in on his '57 Gibson... it began life as a tenor but had a 5 string neck added... go on Don. Give us a photo! :) It has great tone...

Blade recommendation for cutting pearl?

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 16 Jun 2013 20:22:22 CST

Anyone use the Flying Dutchman blades for cutting pearl? Which blades?

string source??

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 16 Jun 2013 18:04:23 CST

I've finally exhausted my supply of Deering strings I bought a looong time ago... ( I don't change strings that often...at least not like my electric guitar) and am looking for something better, but not finding guages lighter than 10 for the 1st and 5th strings. Also might like stainless as well, as I think it'd last longer, and I think I'd like the treble and sustain from stainless too.

I'd take a 9 guage....

but my old Deering sets were 9.5 - 11 - 14 -20w - 9.5

what's a good source or is there one under my nose I don't know about ?

Fiberskyn heads for a bluegrass banjo

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 16 Jun 2013 14:02:39 CST

Has anyone ever tried a Fiberskyn head on a bluegrass banjo? I've got them on my frailing banjos, but saw where Bobby Thompson used to use one on his Baldwin/ODE. I wonder if the sound would be too tubby for bluegrass.

eastman cole

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 16 Jun 2013 13:29:38 CST

a friend sent a few old banjos for me to repair. along with them he sent this eastman neck that he wanted made to look like a cole eclipse MITM. i rounded the top of the peg head and added another piece of ebony (he didn't like the way the eastman was made) and bound the head to match the neck. i then cut and set a bunch of inlays based on pics from various sources and engraved them. since the original coles had a boat shaped heel i wasn't sure what to put there so i decided on a star shining down on the pot (when mounted).i thought it a shame to go this far with it and not carve the heel so i came up with this heel carving. it is in keeping with the "man in the moon" theme and is also different. i have never seen a heel like this so i hope he likes it.

Strings for a six string

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 16 Jun 2013 13:00:26 CST

Hi,

I am new to the forum, and have ben doing a lot of research since getting a Framus 6 string (banjo?) :-) I have played acoustic and electric guitars for many years. My wife is the director of a large music program for a church, and this Christmas we are doing a Celtic program (anybody here heard of Paul Anderson-The Tarland Fiddler - He's from Tarland Scotland). Anyways, we have had difficulty finding a banjo player that reads music, so I am going to double this year on banjo.

I have read a few different things about strings, but there seem to be conflicting opinions. I am going to set the action as low as possible, to make for an easier transition, as all my guitars are setup for ease of play. I have read that electric guitar strings work on these instruments but could sure use some help in this area.

Thanks,

Poco2

Old Banjo Tuning...

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 16 Jun 2013 12:54:47 CST

Hi! Alright, so I've inherited an old family banjo and my parents don't want me to be the first one in ten years to tune it. The banjo itself is in excellent condition, but I need to find some place to get it tuned! Does anyone know a place that will tune my banjo for a reasonable price?

rim to reso spacing

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 16 Jun 2013 12:09:36 CST

I know this has been hashed over before but what is the ballpark spacing between the rim and resonator. 1/4" etc?

Too close too thin,tinty....too much space hollow, muddy

Thanks, John?

El-Chepo Banjo , 'spiderback'

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 16 Jun 2013 12:08:14 CST

This is my first Topic Post , thought I would give it a try .

Let me start be saying that I'm not a fan of cheap Chinese banjos and not much of a fan of any of the cheap stuff they produce . However I came across this broken banjo on Ebay and bought it for $38.50 .

I own a small machine shop and wanted to have something that I can leave laying on a work bench or stand in the corner , pick it up without washing my hands and play a tune on it. I see it as a cheap insurance policy to guard any of the nicer banjos that I might have or will have .

When I got it the rim was broken where the neck mounting hole goes thru and figured I would cut out the broken area , glue in some new wood , clean it up on the lathe and be good to go . However the rim is so week an flimsy that I figured that repair wouldn't last for long .

So I took a differ'nt approach as the pictures show . 1st I took some .060 thick stainless steel sheet and made doubler plates , forward & aft , prettied them up and bolted them inside / outside to strengthen things up . Then I got this brilliant idea to build a 'spider' to strengthen things a bit more . All stainless steel parts and hardware . It's added a lot of weight and I think it feel good to hold . Then I topped it off with an Indian motorcycle shift knob emblem .

Anyway its fun to have something to leave around in the shop and play when I can . Hope you all enjoy the 'spider idea .

Gibson scale length CONFUSION ABOUNDS....

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 16 Jun 2013 11:53:01 CST

Hi banjo folk, I have a question for the technically minded pickers or indeed banjo makers.

I have a 90’s Gibson that is confusing me regards scale length.

I believe that a scale length is the measured distance between the inside edge of the nut and the middle of 12^th fret x 2.

Is that correct?

Well this Gibson has a distance of 13 .125” from nut to the 12^th fret and a distance of 13.425” to the bridge to make it play in tune.

Please can someone help me understand what is happening?

This is only a problem because I think the bridge is not on the sweet spot of the head, ie too close to the edge of the pot making the tone tight and lacking bass.

Is there a position / dimension on the head where the bridge should sit to give the best volume tone?

A Big thank you to any body that can help.

Advice on out of round rims. Please read if you don't know what to do....

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 16 Jun 2013 11:07:37 CST

I'm posting this on the forum as a result of having to fix a lot of problems with out of round rims that have been cut for tonerings. If your rim is out of round...DO NOT CUT IT FOR A TONERING until you have fixed the problem...and it's fairly easy to do in the summer time.

Cutting an out of round rim for a tonering is a great way to insure that you cannot get a good neck fit NOR can you properly set up the banjo for excellent sound. Your tonering needs to have a slip fit on a humid day and the skirt of the tonering needs to gently hug the cut rim all around in order to dial in your sound through coordinator rod, nut tension adjustments. If your rim is out of round then the tonering won't fit correctly and your basically stuck with whatever neck fit you have and whatever sound comes out of the banjo once the strings are installed.

Here is what you do...

Install your DOUBLE coordinator rods into the banjo. Make sure you are using washers on the inside of the rim between the rods and the wood walls of the rim! On the neck side of the rim, use bolts (with matching thread to the coordinator rod) and soft washers on the outside of the rim to hold the coordinator rods into place. Most often, your rim is going to be squashed down from neck to tailpiece...not from side to side. You need to use the coordinator rod nuts to gently push the rim back into round. Generally, I can do this with moderate tension on the nuts at the tailpiece end of the rods. I use a tape measure to measure the inside rim distance from side to side and from neck to tailpiece. When I get these measurements to be equal, I put just a tad bit more pressure on the nuts (to over compensate) and then I put the rim in the attic during a hot week.

I retrieve the rim a week later and Presto!, I can easily loosen the nuts and the rim is back into round...or EXTREMELY close and close enough for work. On a couple of very old Kalamazoo rims, I had to do this twice in order to get the rims back into round but I've had no failures yet. Once I get the rims out of the attic and see that they are good, I keep my coordinator rods in place and store them in a cool DRY place for a week. ALL GOOD.

I'm having to recut 3 different rims right now for improper tonering fit once I've gotten the rims back into round. One rim wasn't even lathed down at the tailpiece end because it was so out of round. If this simple procedure is done before cutting the rim...you can basically eliminate any problems with tonering fit and set up before hand. I realize that this method only works in hot climates and in the summer but postponing this kind of work into hot seasons is going to help solve a lot of problems.

If there are other methods, I'd love to hear about them. I just figured this way is easy and cheap to do!

Lou

Yet another question re: strings (and more) for tenor tuned GDAE

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 16 Jun 2013 10:47:49 CST

I have 2 tenors, both tuned GDAE, and I'm looking foor strings that will help me get the sound I want out of them. One is an old 19 fret Kay, and the other is a 17 fret Slingerland archtop. Both have hide heads. The Kay has a nice, rich, growly low end, but the highs are a little weak and muddy. The Slingerland has a nice, crisp, not too bright high end, but the G string is a little lacking in power.

Basically what I'm hoping for (or maybe dreaming of) is a set (or sets) of strings that will give me balanced tone and volume on both instruments. I love that powerful, punchy, growly low end, but I also want that crisp, clean, clear high end.

Would a different string material help? I use phosphor bronze strings on my mandolins and silk and steel strings on my guitar.

Do I need to play around with string gauges? I've tried all sorts of combos on the Kay, mostly using guitar strings, since that's what I can get locally.

Is there some other aspect of set up I'm not taking into account here? I have the heads on both cranked down pretty tight. Both have old, cheap all maple two foot bridges that I'm pretty sure were stock Kay bridges.

Where do I go from here to get the sound I want?

Is it worth spending any money on it.?

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 16 Jun 2013 09:20:25 CST

On one of my recent forums someone commented about spending money on old banjos. Fair point but if we come across one, that we can put in a playable condition, at a reasonable cost. Should we not all strive to do so.?

custom inlay wanted to replace Sierra dots?

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 16 Jun 2013 09:14:57 CST

Deering wants over $1k for a new neck plus shipping and wondering if it is possible to replace the dot inlays on my 96 Sierra to dress it up a bit. I like the banjo, had it for awhile now and it seems adding a little bling to what I already have is the cheapest route, not to mention I'd also prefer something other than what's on the new Sierras and maybe something a bit more unique to what I'd like. Not much into the hearts and flowers, etc...but something a little more than the dots after all these years might be a nice change. New stainless frets at the same time would be a bonus.

Any suggestions where? I've emailed Custom inlay, but still waiting for a reply. I live in western Kentucky, two hours north of Nashville, but removing the neck and shipping..or the whole banjo shouldn't be a problem.

salvaged piano flush fret

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 16 Jun 2013 07:46:27 CST

accoutrements from a 140-year-old piano.

Gotoh Max. Min. peghead thickness

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 16 Jun 2013 07:20:41 CST

What is the max. and min. peghead thickness for Gotoh tuning pegs?

Gibson double cut peghead template problem

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 16 Jun 2013 07:19:09 CST

I have 3 templates for the Gibson double cut peghead – all different. One is from Siminoff’s book, one from the First Quality Gibson inlays book, and one from the internet. They are all different sizes and shapes. Is there any standard????

Question about adjusting action

eric@banjohangout.org — Sat, 15 Jun 2013 11:57:21 CST

I would like to lower the action on my banjo a little - aside from a shorter bridge, what y'all suggest? I've tinkered with the tension rods at the base of the rim before, but I've read that can be bad for the rim and can displace the contact with the tone ring.

Thanks in advance for your help.

5th String Buzz

eric@banjohangout.org — Sat, 15 Jun 2013 08:26:24 CST

I recently purchased a banjo. It has spikes installed on the 5th string. However, when I use them it makes an annoying buzz sound. I have been told that my spike is too high. How do I go about fixing this?

Davis Cabinet Co.

eric@banjohangout.org — Sat, 15 Jun 2013 08:00:51 CST

While at a gig yesterday we were taking a break with some folks from the audience and the subject fell to "What's the story with that bridge on your banjo?"

"I make them that way for the fretted 12th fret notes to be in tune with the open notes," says I.Always looking for good maple."

He said ,"See that gray Ford ...there's a maple headboard and footboard in the bed that you are welcome to if you can get it into your Yaris."

Too big as was so we took a rock and knocked off the posts.Stacked right in with the passenger seat forward.

This morning while unloading said Yaris,I noticed this sticker on one of the bedboards and said,"Wow,no kidding!"

There will be a nice group of bridges from this maple and I'll get to see what kind of tones I can get from beech.

Inlay problem

eric@banjohangout.org — Sat, 15 Jun 2013 07:29:55 CST

Anyone help out there please? Have a Deering Sierra banjo that I've had for three years. Love it.

But, it's developed this slight cosmetic problem with the inlays (It's the later Sierra with fancy inlays)

A black deposit has appeared around the perimeter of the inlays (Although not the headstock and the last two from the pot end). I don't think it's humidity or drying out problem as I have a couple of banjos and numerous guitars that don't exhibit the same problem. It's actually kept in the same room as I don't gig the Sierra. Anyway, it doesn't affect the playing and is difficult to see - but it can be felt. It's not a large build- up - it almost looks as if it could be rubbed off - but I'm scared to use any solvent on it. I contacted my dealer in the UK who said 'no problem - send it to us and we can correct it'. As if there was not much to repairing it. That's why I wondered if I could fix it. Any advice appreciated.

Neck Width, Oh no not again

eric@banjohangout.org — Sat, 15 Jun 2013 06:43:10 CST

If you followed my post about building a wooden head banjo you have some idea of where I am going here. I have the rim glued up and looks good. When I learn to post pictures here I have some. I also have the neck blank glued up. Maple with a 1/2" stripe of black walnut. Currently the total width of the blank is 2".

I have searched he archives and have not found this question asked or answered.

The question is..... would you make a wider neck for nylon (fish line) strings than steel strings?

I am leaning toward 1.25+ (1 1/4"), possibly 1 3/8" at the nut.

My experience is with nylon strung acoustic guitars (1 7/8" nut). Most steel strung guitars seem to have narrower necks than nylon strung guitars.

Thanks for all ideas and comments in advance. Lots of good knowledge and experience here.

Stelling weight loss

eric@banjohangout.org — Sat, 15 Jun 2013 04:52:03 CST

I posted yesterday on the Stelling Owners Club blog about how my Carolinian lost a bit over three pounds in one day. :-) Given that I want to give it wider exposure, I'm posting here, too. Hopefully the mods won't lock this because of a duplicate post. It's not really a duplicate since the blog is membership only.

Speed Neck - How To?

eric@banjohangout.org — Sat, 15 Jun 2013 04:42:14 CST

Have any of you converted the finish on the back of a neck to what we commonly refer to as a speed neck.

Is it necessary to remove the old finish completely?

If yes or no where would you go from there?

HR30 Ring on a Sullivan Factory Floor Rim

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 14 Jun 2013 20:06:55 CST

I am curious, has anyone installed a Huber HR30 ring on a Sullivan factory floor rim? If so has anyone compared it to the HR30 ring on an engineered rim? Thanks in advance for any replies!

dave

Has anyone ever made or seen a bridge like this?

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 14 Jun 2013 19:59:34 CST

I have been thinking about making a bridge like this for a long time and finally took the time to do it. took quite a bit of time to do so but I finally finished.

Set-up, light effects and how to remove the O2 Banjo LED set / update

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 14 Jun 2013 14:02:38 CST

Dear Banjo Hangout Friends,

I've made a short movie of the set-up, the effects and the dismounting of the O2 LED set on my banjo. Building and developing it took a bit longer than expected and the movie is also bit longer than planned but it was great fun and we can close the project now.

During the light up project we noticed that we need much more people playing banjo as the percentage of banjo players who want to be a central lighting point on stage or on other locations and who actual want to pay for it is too limited. Basically that leaves us without a financial business case. But the project is great fun and it has made a lot of people laugh which is much more valuable than the financial business case so we will continue.....at least till Christmas time.

The movie shows the set-up, some of the banjo lighting effects we programmed into it and finally the dismounting.

Keep on picking, have a time and who knows.............

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LjkoFoiB1sU

When your not out playing you can light up your clock

new bridge design Give away!! we have a winner

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 14 Jun 2013 13:29:06 CST

Hello everyone

I know it's been a long time but here go's. I believe this will be a great bridge for someone. Just leave your height and string spacing.

Thanks Virgil

5th string tuning peg

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 14 Jun 2013 12:29:06 CST

Hello I am needing a Alverez 5th string tuning peg for a late 70,s Alverez banjo any help greatly appreciated thanks

tailpiece tie-on material?

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 14 Jun 2013 10:10:07 CST

I would appreciate advice about what materials builders are using to tie tailpieces to dowel sticks. I'm thinking mostly about gourd and minstrel tackhead banjos. I make bone tailpieces and tie them through two holes to the dowel stick. The other day the gut-like material that I'd used to tie the tailpiece on my most recent longneck gourd build gave up with quite a dramatic bang! I no longer have a source for that material, whatever it was, and am looking for substitutes.

Tennis racket cord? Fiddle tailpiece wire? Weed trimmer line? I'd like it to be strong but organic looking as possible.

Thanks for any recommendations.

Semi-Fretless Brass Plate Thickness?

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 14 Jun 2013 09:35:24 CST

I have just started building a new neck from old reclaimed mahogany wood. I am seriously thinking about going semi fretless in the Jason Mogi style with curved brass plate: https://picasaweb.google.com/115355090606635338537/42CustomShortScale213

Am I correct in saying that the thickness of the brass should be the same as the fret height?

How does the curved plate affect fretting in that area?

That sure is one beautiful banjo...

Your help needed - cataloging tone rings

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 14 Jun 2013 09:19:18 CST

Hi BHO community...

I'm going to start a spreadsheet (which I will continually update and post here) of all the various tone rings out there (past and present). I'd like the BHO members help in supplying information to me.

Here's what I'm thinking of tracking...

I will be tracking...

Vintage: (what year, time period, or if new production, just put the word 'modern' in place, etc.)

Brand/Manufacturer: (i.e., Blaylock, Gibson, Huber, JLS, Kulesh, etc.)

Description: (20-hole flattop, 4-hole archtop, ball bearing, no hole flat top, rolled bras, etc. ... plus an distinguishing features like short skirt, long skirt, etc.)

Material: (brass, bronze, aluminum, etc.)

Plating: (gold plated, nickel plated, unplated, etc.)

Weight: (in ounces)

Markings: (i.e., any foundry markings, engraving, or stampings)

Notes:

Here's an example...

Vintage: Late 1960s

Brand/Manufacturer: Gibson

Description: 20-hole flathead

Material: brass

Plating: chrome

Weight: 53.8 ounces

Markings: none

Notes: From 1967 RB250

So, if you have a spare ring floating around and you'd like to contribute, please copy and paste below and add the appropriate information

Vintage:

Brand/Manufacturer:

Description:

Material:

Plating:

Weight:

Markings:

Notes:

thumb pick shape

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 13 Jun 2013 22:56:26 CST

I have noticed some pro's have flattened the point of their thumb pick, made it straight across instead of pointed, or is it just from use? Can any one tell me why?

Stainless steel or other alternative fret material

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 13 Jun 2013 16:53:33 CST

I think I asked this before a while back... but what are some alternative or what is recommended and how will a different fret material material affect sound?

I have heard of titanium and stainless steel...

Bevel rim or raise head?

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 13 Jun 2013 15:23:47 CST

Hi all,

I'm setting up a modest but nice old Slingerland open-back plectrum (yup, 22 frets not 17 or 19 -- only one I've seen). It's all good except for one wrinkle. There is (at present) no metal tone ring, so the head sits on the wood rim. Fine, you say, and that's what I thought, except that the rim is cut square on top (that is, rectangular in cross section), so that the head touches the rim across its (the rim's) top surface, and in fact rattles or buzzes noticeably since it (the head) apparently touches the rim at more than one place -- not just the outside edge of the rim.

So it seems to me like my options are (i) bevel the rim inward a bit, which was typical of the wood-rim (no tone ring) banjos of the period. No particular objection except the work involved, plus the newly-beveled rim edge would have to be finished or at least sealed a little bit. But there's no cosmetic issue -- you don't see it through the head. (Well, unless you use a clear head, which I'm not.) Option (ii) is to insert something between the rim and the head, like some kind of tone ring. But this is a 10 3/4" rim, and even if a hoop-type tone ring were available in that diameter, it would still raise the head enough to throw the other dimensions out of whack. I thought I had seen a thread here about putting tacks in the rim, but I looked it up and that's apparently only for supporting a tone ring. Could one support the head directly on tacks of some kind? Or could I make a thin ring out of wire (say), which would solve my problem (the head vibration can't be much in the area of the rim) without altering the dimensions (head height etc.) significantly?

Your advice? Thanks! Sorry for the length of the post -- as Mark Twain said, "I'm sorry for sending such a long letter, but I didn't have time to write a short one:"

Rick Sampson Bridges

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 13 Jun 2013 12:32:11 CST

I recently traveled from my home in Australia to the USA to visit family and friends. As luck would have it, I ended up with a lot of time on my hands, so rather than hang out in Chicago I headed north to my Nephew, Jud Steinback's place in LaCrosse.

He is a keen folk musician and we often said we'd get together on one of my visits, so I was determined to make it happen this time. I had a banjo with me, a shiny, new Gold Tone OB 300. Unfortunately, the supplier and I had miscommunication about the spiking of the 5th string so it was not spiked. Jud suggested a guy named Rick Sampson who did some work with banjos might be able to drive a couple spikes for me. So I rang him and we got together in the park and played music for a couple hours (filmed by the local music store) and he took my banjo to his shop for spiking.

As it turns out, he builds amazing bridges for banjos. Now, I am no virtuoso with or prima donna about banjos. "Campfire" would best describe my interest and skill level, but it seemed rude to not accept his suggestion that I buy a bridge from him. It turned out to be a really good decision.

Rick put a walnut bridge on the OB300 and made it sound much smoother and richer. I was amazed at how much difference it made. So, I Googled some testimonials about Rick and his bridges and they all, to a man, describe how much better banjos sound with his particular bridge.

So, I not only made a fun and generous banjo friend, but I also improved the sound of and my pleasure in playing immensely. I hope to get back to the States in July of 2014 and when I do, I hope Rick and I shake the leaves off the trees in the park with hot licks and cool tunes.