Banjo Hangout - Banjo Building, Setup, and Repair Forum Feed

Trying a new bridge design

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 14 Jun 2026 14:04:24 CST

I decided to try an idea for a bridge I've been kicking around, basically it gets away from the 3 foot design, in order to prevent a sag in the middle. Instead of 3 feet and air in between, it uses a solid piece of wood with holes drilled in it. The holes are spaced between and under the strings, to lighten the solid piece, and so each string has the same configuration of wood around it.

I have some Osage Orange wood which is harder than maple, and has good sound properties. Earlier I made a new bridge top for my mandola out of it, and it sounds very nice, kind of airy and sweet, compared to ebony. This one is a two piece, Osage Orange top with Red Maple bottom.

I think it sounds pretty good for the ML-1, a little woody maybe, less brash, and it lets me dig in a little harder which helps sometimes. I did a short video so you can see it and hear it.

Drum dial head adjust how to

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 14 Jun 2026 10:38:22 CST

Is there a video anywhere that shows how to properly use a drum dial to set my head? I cant do the scratch way.

Replacing the 5th string tuner on a gibson RB-170

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 14 Jun 2026 08:26:20 CST

Just bought an RB-170. I'd like to upgrade the 5th string tuner. Do you have recommendations for a tuner, and is it something an inexperienced Luthier can do?

Kel Kroydon/Style 11 Blue

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 14 Jun 2026 05:50:47 CST

Has anyone had any luck matching the blue paint on Kel Kroydons and Style 11s? I'm thinking of painting a neck and want something that really matches the rim/resonator sides. I'm not totally opposed to stain but the originals were painted...

A couple comments on Mitch Meador's 38 Special tone rings

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 12 Jun 2026 09:24:56 CST

A couple comments on my experience with Mitch Meador's 38 Special tone rings.

I have an AMB banjo with a hoop ring. Meador's make a couple substitute rings to replace the hoop ring without any modification to the rim. The banjo sounds really really gooood! with either substitute ring.

Over time I've replaced my other flat heads with the 38 Specials and I couldn't be happier.

The rims in my parts banjos - one is hard maple and the other two are soft maple.

I found that his rings have an even tone across all strings...no 5th string ringing.

And the correct amount decay on the strings.

When I tap the ring with my knuckle I get the tone I want to hear.

Down the neck or up the neck the ring is strong and consistent.

The rings are consistent in tone across the rings. Gives me that old prewar sound I like.

He has all the combos short or long skirt, no hole - 20 hole, un-plated ,nickel , gold. I'm sure I'm missing a couple variations. It's nice that I find the config I need without the need to modify my rims. Which is great.

I plan on building a couple more banjos using his rings.

I have not been disappointed and he is a great guy to deal with.

Just my opinion but I thought I would share my info.

How far do you let your fret wear go?

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 11 Jun 2026 16:20:35 CST

I didn’t want to hijack the other fret topic, so decided to start a new one. I tend to be a “don’t fix what isn’t broke” when it comes to frets. I was changing strings today, on my Sierra, and thought I’d take a pic of my current frets. I don’t think they are that bad, and will play them until they buzz. They are fine now, and should be for several more years. I recently replaced the first 5 frets on my other banjo, so this one is now the furthest along in wear.

What say you? How far do you let your frets get, before dress or replace? Do you get nervous when they get a shine, or do you play them into the ground?

And don’t worry, my frets are not pulling up… I saw the picture and freaked out… but it’s just the lighting and shadows.

Binding a Complex Banjo Peghead?

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 11 Jun 2026 13:03:38 CST

Binding a banjo peghead is a pain because of the angled edge of the side of the peghead, especially if there are multiple curves. I saw a post in the past that talked about using tape along the edges as a dam and using some kind of casting plastic to fill the routed edges, and then smoothing everything out once it's dry. What kind of material is that? Does anyone have any photos of the results?

Advice on cleaning up a prewar TB-3

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 10 Jun 2026 21:55:49 CST

I just picked up a ball bearing TB3 from the 8225 batch (1926).

It’s in playable condition already, but pretty grody with corrosion on the metal, and wood finish.

Any advice on what to use to clean it up? I’m not trying to get back to factory new, honest wear is great, I just want it protected and stable moving forward.

I was planning to use some of the Gibson spray polish on the wood, which is what I’ve been using for decades on most of my instruments. But I think 1926 was a borderline year where the may not have been spraying nitro yet.

I dunno on the metal. Most seems fine, but the tone ring has a lot of greenish corrosion right where it touches the head, as well as a lot on the skirt. As far as I know, it’s somewhat of a mystery as to what plating was used on the ball bearing system, so I don’t know what’s safe here.

I intend to keep this banjo as is and play Irish trad with it. I will probably replace the grover 2 tab tuners and the 2 footed bridge, but other than that it’s exactly what I was looking for. Since the headstock has been broken and repaired already, probably no issue reaming for modern tuners.

I’m sure I’ll be chasing setup a while. Whoever had it before me had the head down at 80 (and neck angle to match the bridge sunken way down!). 88 was too high, so I have it around 85 right now. It seems the ball bearing banjos are completely different in what they want than the 40 hole archtop I’m used to messing with.

Adjusting the rim-stick on an OME Banjo?

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 10 Jun 2026 20:59:52 CST

What is the OME rim-stick? How does one use it to adjust the neck? How is it different from coordinator rods?

mark

1970's Tokai banjo frets

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 10 Jun 2026 16:05:33 CST

After stripping, cleaning and reassembling this jo, the lower frets are rather worn. I have measured the height of the goods up the neck and they read as shown. My first thought was to level the frets but looking at them, it appears they have been levelled in the past (maybe more than once). Doing so may make it unplayable?

The option is to co0mpletely re-fret it. The only fret wire available here is Accu-Fret and limited in the sizes available.
Does anyone known what size fret wire was used back in the day?

Rebuilding a tenor from spare conversion parts?

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 9 Jun 2026 20:00:14 CST

I recently got back my first (and likely last) “commissioned” conversion — a 1932 TB-3, all original metalwork, converted by Chris Warner with a wonderful neck and uncut rim (via Turtle Hill conversion flathead tone ring).

I’m loving this banjo, perhaps with the exception of the original low ratio tuners — they’re in good condition but a little coarse for me (seems like they might be 1:2 ratio or something along those lines)

Did I mention I’m loving this banjo? And Chris for taking on the work!!! I feel like I’m blessed with some great banjos, but my band mates insist this is THE ONE.

That aside… I have the original neck and arch top tone ring leftover. I’d love to have a tenor in the arsenal if it could be done cheaply with these parts, but not sure where to begin. And the bigger issue perhaps is a pretty bad crack across the heel of the neck — not sure how stable the repair is (see pics). What would you do? Is it worth the trouble?

Hookless banjo rim concept from Arbiter

eric@banjohangout.org — Mon, 8 Jun 2026 21:29:40 CST

Just to start some discussion about the possibility of this concept from Arbiter drum from the’70’s.
This is a 12” example from reverb nation.
The tone ring is built in.
The hardware clamps on the top of the rim.
The head tightens with 1/4” turn w/ Allen
Just like Nechville.
The company is out of business, but the patent is still extant, I don’t know the terms of that.

I once spoke with ‘Mr Nechville about Arbiter, had no knowledge.

Think about it. We are all adaptive,
Real Arbiters are still available.
Look how beautiful they are.
I hear the sound of Arbiters is unique and Sooo easy to set up at the gig.

Help! Truss rod waaaaay off center. First banjo build

eric@banjohangout.org — Mon, 8 Jun 2026 19:29:32 CST

So, I am building a fretted tackhead banjo. This is my first ever banjo build and my first banjo. I figure I will build one and then learn to play it. I have built several harps at this point, which makes this an even more embarrassing mistake.

I made the neck up by gluing lengths of maple together via the Chris Witulski tutorial for building tackhead banjos. The truss rod is cut from the last layer that also includes part of the heel thickness.

Somehow, I marked the center line off center, and then happily started tapering it down. Only after I started doing some preliminary marking up on the pot for the truss holes did I notice that I apparently don't know how to use a square anymore.

It's like...a good twenty degrees off center, and I don't think I can fudge that out by thinning it down and still have structural integrity.

Banjo builders-- what should I do? Cut it off and drill a hole for a glue-in dowel? The current truss rod is a continuation of the back of the heel, so I was not sure if it needed to be flush to be effective. I have not really been able to look at the internal workings of many banjos.

Do I try to steam the last layer of maple off that includes the end of the heel, put a new piece on and try again? (Not super confident this would be easily achieved.)

Feeling real dumb about now, lol.

Help!

String gauge on vintage Kay

eric@banjohangout.org — Mon, 8 Jun 2026 12:57:56 CST

Hello All,
Newbie here.

I just aquired what is probably a 1940's - 50's Kay 5 string resonator. It does not have a truss rod.

Once I do all the neccessary nurturing to bring it back to life, including flattening the fingerboard etc., what gauge strings should I try first?

Can this thing handle mediums?

Thanks!
John

Head tension

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 7 Jun 2026 19:21:54 CST

What do folk set their tension for a 12" renaissance head using a drum dial?

What is a good source for Tuning Pegs?

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 7 Jun 2026 15:42:45 CST

I am making a banjo, one that I really want to play. I have a shop and plan to make more than one. My design has had a few iterations that have created configurable options: Radiused or flat fingerboard, Top-Edge or Air Gap Tone Ring. Less demanding on the geometry is Tuning Peg sourcing.

No intention (at the moment) to design or make Tuning Pegs. So, two questions: What would be a good source for

• Economical Tuning Pegs, and
• Better Tuning Pegs suitable for Maple/Walnut Neck and Hard Maple Block Rim Banjo

Many thanks

Neck alignment

eric@banjohangout.org — Sat, 6 Jun 2026 13:27:48 CST

Hi, I'm new here. I got a problem already.
While building my first 5-string banjo I have studied all discussions about determining the centerline of the neck and position of the peghead. I have a hard time following everything about two centerlines, lines shifting beyond the fifth fret, shifting pegheads etc.
I have a blank made up of two mahogany boards with a strip of other wood in between. All symetrical, so far so good.
I was thinking of making the trussrod slot right in the middle (into the strip) and maintaining the peghead in the center as well. Meaning the tip of the peghead will be where the tip of the strip of wood is. This seems how all banjonecks with a strip at the back look. It's right in the middle.
In my view this way the third string will automatically run from the nut to the middle of the 22nd fret all along the theoretical centerline of the neck right above the center of the trussrod. I know there is no real centerline as it passes the 5th fret because of the cut away neck.
I go nuts when reading that the centerline between the nut and 5th fret should move over toward the third and second string. Can I ignore all this and just proceed as discribed above with the third string as a guideline for the centerline? Am I missing something crucial?

Experience with Nylguts!

eric@banjohangout.org — Sat, 6 Jun 2026 04:42:30 CST

Hey all.
Finally I feel I can post something that may be of assistance for some folks.
So I have a (new to me) Ome Wizard walnut 12" pot. It came with steel strings and sounded wonderfully rich and complex, compared to my deering goodtime, it really is tangible.
However, I had obsessed with chasing a specific sound - that Nylgut, sweet, bouncey , mellow sound , old time and mountain sounding. I wanted soft and sweet.
So I invested in a variety of Nylgut and nylon to try. After some faffing with nut slots and bridge slots and snapping a few in the process I finally had my Nylguts on (classics). Alas, the complexity of sound the banjo is capable of, was drastically reduced. It felt great under the fingers, but wow I really noticed the difference of richness of tone. New to me as a new banjo player.
So I tried the red Aquila 11b. Same process, snapped one and waited a few days to get them settled. A little better tone but still it felt like a great disservice to the banjos potential.
Finally after playing for a week, I decided to go back to light steel phosphor strings. I was chasing a sound, but I have learned so much about tone and complexity and overtones, that now I forsake that slight metallic sound for the absolute joy of feeling and hearing the wide variety of tone the banjo can provide. Which I found the Nylguts seemed to have deaden.

On this same note, I had in my head I will get a fiberskyn head! Despite reading on this forum, it being referred to as 'driving down the road with four flat tyres!', but he renaissance head is absolutely wonderful and really is a great head that allows the banjo to sing to it's full potential.

Thanks for your guidance and help on this journey !
Perry

Ome Wizard , Ebony Fingerboard Issue?

eric@banjohangout.org — Sat, 6 Jun 2026 04:26:46 CST

Hello folks !
So I am now a very happy (and blessed) owner of an Ome Wizard banjo in walnut 12" pot. I bought used on eBay. It is a huge upgrade from my first deering goodtime.
However, not having experience with Ebony fingerboards , I am a little concerned about the pitting and grain of the material. I have attached photos. Please tell me this normal and not consequence of mistreatment and abuse.
Is there anything I can do to protect the wood? What would you recommend?
Many thanks again for your help and expertise!
Perry

Nechville Warp Drive Pick-up

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 4 Jun 2026 02:39:13 CST

I play a Nechville Eclipse with a warp drive pickup installed. I recently was doing some maintenance on my banjo and tightened the head a bit. After doing so I realized the warp drive pickup is no longer straight across the banjo, but is now at an angle. When I try to move it back in place it feels stuck, I cannot get the spring to release. Has anyone else come across this issue or have any pointers to deal with this issue?

finish on my Huber Kalamazoo

eric@banjohangout.org — Wed, 3 Jun 2026 10:06:00 CST

Hey,
I have been trying to contact Huber Banjos, but no luck (emailed and voicemails seem to be a one way experience). So maybe someone can offer some advice. I have a Kalamazoo that is really pristine with the exception of the top back of the neck. It has been stored for the last several years and the last time I cleaned it I treated the frets with some conditioner. Sadly I must had some trace amount of the conditioner on my left hand when I put it back in the case... there is some areas that seem to have eaten into the lacquer... absolutely bummed me out.
Wondering where I can have the finish either repaired or have the back converted to a speed neck? Not thrilled to ship it, but I'm up north about an hour from Pittsburgh Pa.
Any ideas would be appreciated,
thanks
-Larry

hardware store lacquer

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 2 Jun 2026 19:19:22 CST

I have always used "musical instrument" lacquer to finish necks, but I am wondering how this differs from lacquer you can buy in a hardware. If you have used the hardware store variety, I'd be interested in what your results were.

What exactly is the difference between the two?

Patinating tuners

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 2 Jun 2026 01:47:07 CST

I'm wondering if anyone on here has experience with patinating raw brass tuners (Gotohs). One of my new builds is walnut/maple, and all other brass parts are aged; I would like it all to match. I've looked at the archives, and this question has come up before, but no good answers.

I'm thinking I would paint the Jax on with a brush - not immerse - but would need to rinse with running water.

Any thoughts?

New Tranjo travel banjo design using 3d printed parts

eric@banjohangout.org — Mon, 1 Jun 2026 14:03:01 CST

After nearly 2 years of experimenting and design revision, I have finally completed the new Tranjo Express IIID travel banjo. Like the previous Express models, the neck is hard maple with a 2-way truss rod, mounted on an extruded aluminum support bar. All the rest of the body parts including the head, tuner mounting plate and armrest, neck support, and even the bridge are completely 3D printed. The tuners are string locking 18:1 ratio guitar tuners. The new model also includes an integrated storage compartment and floor stand. And of course you can remove the full scale neck and fit it into a carry-on suitcase. Tranjo Express IIID information
Many thanks to Rich Stillman for the encouragement and support during this project, and for playing on the video.

Nechville mounting system question

eric@banjohangout.org — Mon, 1 Jun 2026 11:19:53 CST

I like that Nechville is thinking broadly about how to make banjos, and many of their ideas, like the mounting system, are interesting. But some of the used Nechville banjos I've seen have worn out cogs in the Heli-Mount Tension Ring. Is this user error or is this common for older Nechville banjos?

-Jeremy

Flange for a fat rim style 1

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 31 May 2026 18:14:04 CST

I recently picked a fatrim style 1 with a first gen flange that broke in shipment. I now am looking for a flange to replace it. I have a Prucha but need to have it machined to fit, Looks like the Prucha is machined to 2nd gen Gibson flange specs, so almost .03/side need to come off the IDs. Are there any flanges that would fit without machine work? And who can or would turn this Prucha to fit my rim? Thanks

More Bridges!

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 31 May 2026 09:11:10 CST

After posting my first brudge I immediately got back to work and started building some more. I altered the design to be easier to carve with a knife. I also began weighing them. I weighed the first bridge I made and it was 2.23 grams! I can really lucky there considering i did not have a scale.

This is the second bridge, it sounded awful. I tried to make the cap thicker because I thought it would look pretty if the feet weren't connected. And it does look pretty but it doesnt sound good. I also had a heck of a time getting the weight down due to the ultra heavy cap and I ended up removing wood from the feet. Big mistake but a good learning experience. It also started out weight 2.31 grams, didnt sound good was very quiet. I took it down to 2.27 grams and it got louder but much too shrill and just amplified existing problems.

The Third bridge i made copied the second ones design but used a normal cap, it sounded good, especially great up the neck. Weighed 2.24 grams

The fourth bridge is designed just the same but with a very small cap and I made sure to perfectly align the grain. It weight 2.3 grams and its my favorite so far! Has the best bass respond but still sounds good up the neck.

2002 stelling bellflower

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 31 May 2026 04:05:08 CST

Hello new here how would a bellflower with 3 ply rim sound if i had a sullivan block walnut rim put in it
thanks

New Mini Banjo Build- #037

eric@banjohangout.org — Sat, 30 May 2026 09:25:35 CST

A client requested that I build a mini banjo using a Dixie Banjo Uke pot assembly. He requested that it have a blond finish with no stain. It was built out of curly maple and has a pop on-off resonator. The case was built using poplar shelving board and was coated with roll-on automotive bed liner.

/Moon compensated banjo bridge in 3/4”? Do they exist?

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 29 May 2026 17:52:12 CST

Hey all, I’m looking for a Moon-style compensated banjo bridge in 3/4” height, and I’m wondering if they actually exist or if they’re mostly limited to standard heights. I know 3/4” bridges are already pretty rare, so I’m not sure if this is something that’s even commonly made or just something that would have to be special ordered.

Also, does anyone know who actually manufactures Moon bridges these days, or is it more of a reseller/small-shop branding situation? Any info or pointers on where to find one would be appreciated.

I know Pisgah makes a Eclipse bridge in 3/4", but its "3-D printed from sustainable plant based bio-plastic", which I'm skeptical about. Call me old-fashioned, but like the idea of a wood bridge.

I didn't know anyone was building banjo basses, but someone is

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 29 May 2026 16:11:50 CST

Just saw this on FB Marketplace, and the price looks reasonable. I don't know anything more than what the ad says.

Fretboard seems too close to pot

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 29 May 2026 13:44:32 CST

I’m restoring an old SS Stewart banjo and the first thing I want to address is a lifted fretboard at the neck-pot joint. The fretboard was touching the pot, which I think was part of the cause. Also, it was tough to get the flesh loop/head out because it is so tight and now will have to be forced back down to remount the head. I think i should file it back so there is an air gap. Does that sound right or is there something else i should consider?

Appreciate any advice I can get.

Installing railroad spikes for clawhammer

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 29 May 2026 11:39:59 CST

A couple of questions here. I am thinking of adding two spikes, one at 7 and one at 9. Is there any reason to add any others? I assume that would cover most tunings with some minor retuning up or down?

The local shop wants $50. Does that sound about right? And, how hard is it to install these yourself? How easy is it to screw it up?

adjusting the heel cut

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 29 May 2026 08:26:33 CST

I have an inexpensive Trinity River tenor banjo I bought used. The neck is OK, but the sound was less than ideal. I decided to change out the pot assuming the heel cut was good as long as I reproduced the position of the holes in the new pot. It didn't work out and the neck angle if way off. Now I am trying to adjust the heel cut to get the correct angle. I don't want to take it to a luthier (that would run about $200 around here).

Can anyone share some DIY methods for shaping the heel?

New Strings for a New (to me) Aria

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 28 May 2026 11:01:48 CST

A neighbor gave me an Aria banjo just to get rid if it. It looks to be n good condition. (see photos). I want to install new strings to start with.
I don't see how to open the tailpiece.
All comments appreciated.

TIA

Trying to lower action. Neck shim?

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 28 May 2026 06:31:51 CST

I have this banjo: sagamusic.com/shop/banjos/gold...me-banjo/

I love how it sounds in first five frets but action is very high up the neck. I play clawhammer with light strings. I have another banjo with much lower action up the neck and I love it. I don’t seem to prefer high action for hammer ons and such. And I must have a light touch because I rarely hit the head when I strike on my banjo that has the low action I like. (I mostly play over the head and not the scoop).

This banjo doesn’t have a truss rod. I tried adjusting the coordinator rod to reset the neck angle. I got the action where I wanted and it sounded great! But I had to crank that coordinator rod way too much. The rod was sticking out of the banjo and bending the tailpiece bolt outwards, and it was also starting to make my rim oblong. Not good long term for the banjo I think. I adjusted it back to where it was mostly.

My neck does not look bowed compared to my guitar necks, which do have some relief in them. It just looks angled if you ask me.

My bridge is 0.625”.

Action height measurements:
5th fret - 3mm
12th fret - 4mm
17th fret - 5.05mm

Should I try to shim the neck? 0.5” bridge? Both? If neck shim is recommended, I would appreciate any guidance. Is there a way to calculate what thickness of shim I need based on desired action at a certain fret, or should I just guess and check?

New head for SSS

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 26 May 2026 19:10:31 CST

I’m looking to put a new head on my Stewart Universal Favorite, but I’ve never done anything like that. I’ve read a few posts on installing new heads in general, but I’d like to hear from someone who has done it on a Universal Favorite, or at least a Stewart.

What size do I need?
Will I have to loosen the neck?
Anything else I should anticipate?
Renaissance or Fiberskyn?

It’s had steel strings for most of the forty years I’ve owned it, and the neck is just fine. But if I were to switch to nylon, should that decision factor into my choice of head?

Help attaching resonator to rim

eric@banjohangout.org — Tue, 26 May 2026 06:48:05 CST

Hi all, I'm trying to attach this old resonator to a block cherry rim built by Zach Hoyt. The resonator has four notches cut into the interior, but I can't figure out how to attach the two parts - the resonator and the rim. I've read that L brackets might work best, but I can't see how they attach without drilling holes through the resonator, which I do not want to do.

What am I missing? I do not plan on having a flange, so the simplest and most elegant solution is what I'm ideally looking for. Zach suggested magnets as a possible option, but I thought I'd see if anyone had other ideas before I moved forward with anything since I'm not really sure how to do this.

Many thanks.

where to buy spotted goat skin head

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 24 May 2026 16:31:03 CST

I looking for a source for buying a spotted pre-mounted goatskin head, particularly a 12" low crown with lots of big back splotches with little white showing.

Dave

Routing down banjo fretboard to match neck

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 24 May 2026 16:05:49 CST

Can anyone recommend videos on using a table router to route down banjo freeboards. I am thinking of obtaining one to do this rather than hand sanding.

First Sting Very Tinny Sounding

eric@banjohangout.org — Sun, 24 May 2026 11:35:09 CST

I play a Deering Maple Blossom, and the first string is very tinny sounding. Any advice on how to fix it. The strings are new.
Thanks in Advance

Inlays, shellac sticks, and open pores

eric@banjohangout.org — Sat, 23 May 2026 16:55:44 CST

Hi all. First, thanks for everything you do here. With the help of past discussions, I had my first inlay experiment go really well!
I’m going to attach a photo. In it, you’ll see that I’m inlaying into walnut and the shellac stick filled the pores around the inlay. What are some techniques for either (1) preventing this (maybe some kind of sealer or pore filler before the shellac stick?) and (2) filling the rest to match without shellac sticking the whole thing?

What Size Truss Rod Wrench for 90s Era Gibson

eric@banjohangout.org — Sat, 23 May 2026 15:17:34 CST

Question says it.

The fretboard on the 90s RB250 neck in my parts banjo is perfectly flat. I want to introduce some relief to try to clear up rattle that has developed, especially on the open G and first few frets.

The one truss rod tool I have that works on the 70s neck in another banjo seems to be too big for the nut on this neck's truss rod. Doesn't feel like it grabs the nut. I know the rods are different: 70s were one-way/single action; 90s two-way/double action.

If I had nut drivers, I could just test until I found the size. But I don't.

So what size does this truss rod nut take?

Thanks.

Funny I haven't heard any rattle up to now. Don't know if it just developed. Or I'm hearing it exaggerated because I was playing with my hearing aids in. With the aids out I don't hear it as much.

Bridge

eric@banjohangout.org — Sat, 23 May 2026 14:50:38 CST

The banjo sounds good enough for the price point. But I'm trying to make improvements. Is this tailpiece being crooked effecting enough to warrant replacement. And if so why is it crooked in the first place?

Luthier/repair recommendation

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 22 May 2026 18:58:12 CST

I want to give a big shout out to my new favorite luthier, Don Kawalek. I recently bought a Baldwin Ode, and the resonator had worn finish and chipped binding and the neck had chipped binding as a result of a slide fifth string capo having been drilled into it. I shipped the pieces off to Don and he did an outstanding job with the repairs, was great to work with, and his price was reasonable. Quick turnaround too. If you need any repair work done I highly recommend him. I also know that he builds great banjos.

https://donkawalek.com

Setting crown height with a new skin head

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 22 May 2026 08:44:34 CST

I am about to replace the skin head on my old Cole banjo and will be using a calf skin with a goat skin as backup just in case I screw it up first go around. So my question is once I get the wet skin under the tension hoop and slide it down a bit just how far down should I set it to get a proper crown height? I guess the real question is how much is the head likely to stretch once it dries out and I start tensioning it? Also, I have a tension gage so is there a reasonable value I should initially shoot for? The reason I have to replace the old one is it had stretched to the point the flesh ring was bottoming out on the heel notch and I don’t want that to happen.

Huber Keystone Ring

eric@banjohangout.org — Fri, 22 May 2026 05:11:52 CST

Apparently Huber is going to launch a new tone ring called the Keystone. Anyone know much about it? https://www.facebook.com/pages/Huber%20Banjos/132412000137360

Tuner alignment woes

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 21 May 2026 22:22:52 CST

Being a suffering perfectionist, this miss alignment bothers me but on the other hand it's only slightly off. It's straight in one direction and slightly leans towards the fretboard. So I'm tempted to leave it as is. What do you think ?

Banjo intonation issue: open and 12th fret good, but mid-neck is off

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 21 May 2026 17:56:30 CST

Hey All. I have a open back banjo that is intonated correctly at both the open strings and the 12th fret. However, most fretted notes in between are noticeably off: The 3rd string is slightly flat, but the 1st, 2nd, and 4th strings are slightly sharp. The tuning appears to be the most off between the 3rd and 5th frett.

Setup notes:
- Action looks good
- Bridge placement seems correct (open and 12th fret are in tune anyway)
- Consistent fretting pressure
- Medium gauge strings, not too old.
- Standard 5/8" bridge

Its a nicer banjo, so I suspect the truss rod and coordinator rod setup are ok. Would a compensated bridge help with this? I’m stuck on what to try next. Any suggestions from more knowledgeable folks on what to check next would be appreciated.

How would you fix this nut?

eric@banjohangout.org — Thu, 21 May 2026 09:12:39 CST

This is my “travel banjo” which also de-facto makes it the one I learn how to do stuff myself on. As you can see from the pictures, when strung the nut is pulling forward a touch. Looks like some residue it where it meets the fretboard. I have never had to glue a nut before, but I have also only had guitars before. Intuition tells me to scrape residue off. Sand the contact point very gently and try a tiny bit of elmers. What would you do?