Quickstep192 - Posted - 11/20/2009:  13:41:17

I'm installing a StewMac HotRod truss rod and I'm wondering about how to install it so it can be adjusted from the heel. The overall length of the neck from the nut to where the heel meets the rim is about 19-1/2", but the truss rod is only 18". If I put the adjustment nut at the heel end, the rest of the rod won't traverse the entire length of the neck. If I try to make the truss rod start at the nut, the adjustment will be way up in the heel. Is that OK?

Jack Russel - Posted - 11/20/2009:  16:07:28

I'd be interested to hear why you want to adjust the rod from the heel - will it be accseeible through a port, or will you have to remove the neck to get to the adjusting nut?

if it's the latter, I'd advise against it. The instruments I like setting up least are Fender solids with the truss rod installed this way. You've got to take the neck off to adjust the rod. They're a nightmare, because you can't adjust the neck relief with the strings in tension (or even in place). This can make the truss rod adjustment a bit hit and miss, and costs time because if you don't get it right first time you've got to dismantly the **** thing and do it all over again

Helix - Posted - 11/20/2009:  16:25:39

Just lay the truss rod down on the neck, make sure the end of the rod is recessed into the heel a little, draw a line, up around the 3rd fret or so where the end of the truss rod is, now draw your center line and make several passes with the router.

OME builds this way, Fawley also. Helix as well.

If you have cured wood, and everything is just right, you should be able to set the relief and leave it on the banjo like forever. If you live on a shrimp boat, then maybe a little adjusting.

When you use peghead adjustment the slot for the truss rod comes dangerously close to the structural limit of the neck what with the nut there and all, it tunnels pretty close to the underside of the neck, you don't want to know HOW close.

That's why you don't need an adjusting hole in the tone ring or rim, simply know your luthiery, set the relief and move to the next step.

The strength and longevity of the solid peghead combined with your good and respectable handwork makes that type of neck a real premium not a problem.

I'm not contradicting our friend above, just another point of view. I learned this from the Banjo Hangout, it's got a cool factor of 1900.

mrussell - Posted - 11/20/2009:  18:00:10

The banjos I've built with a truss rod all have the truss rod reversed. I start the slot for the truss rod about at the 2nd fret and widen the slot at the heel as needed to access the nut. I've never considered cutting a hole in the pot, as I set the neck bow without the strings on. Anyway, it works for me.

Mike

Quickstep192 - Posted - 11/20/2009:  19:30:18

"I'd be interested to hear why you want to adjust the rod from the heel - will it be accseeible through a port, or will you have to remove the neck to get to the adjusting nut?"

I must confess, my interest is purely aesthetic. The headstock will look prettier without a truss rod cover IMHO. It's a dowelstick banjo, so removing the neck seems realtively easy; I don't see an effective way to include a port to access the adjustment nut with the neck on. My house is humidity controlled year round, so I hope not to adjust too often. All that said, the neck is already slotted nut to heel. I suppose I could glue a piece of wood into the part of the slot that would be "empty". I do get the setup concerns and how you can't compensate for string tension without the strings on. Hmmmmmm.......

Jack Russel - Posted - 11/21/2009:  16:06:33

with all respect due to other contributors to this post

I guess if I lived in a climate with stable humidity I might concur with Helix and wouldn't have made the comment I made. Here in the UK humidity is very variable and domestic air conditioning rare. So I can't agree with him entirely.

My comments are based on my own experience over here, setting up many banjos each week. In our climate necks can change shape quickly and dramatically and often need truss rod adjustment. I would guess that if you live in one of the central states of the US then neck relief changes might not be a big issue anyway, as Helix says, but if you're in one of the coastal states it might be, if you take the instrument out of the house for any lenght of time.

good luck with your project.