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 ARCHIVED TOPIC: heel sander


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daren - Posted - 09/17/2009:  13:51:02


I don't know what others use, but I have been using my own simple drill press jig for many years. To see it, go to my photo album: http://www.banjohangout.org/myhango....asp?id=6098 The photos show how it sands the heel contour at the proper (adjustable) angle and how it sands the notch for the tension hoop. For the heel on my trapdoor neck also shown in the photos, I drilled a hole sideways through the heel while it was still square for the tube that the hooks go through, then trimmed it out to fit. This kind of thing may have been covered before. I did not bother to search. Please feel free to ask questions.
Dave

BNJOMAKR - Posted - 09/17/2009:  15:31:50


I was talking to beegee one night at a ENCBA pick'n and he told me about a friend who used a dremel tool to cut heels by mounting it in a jig and sweeping it back and forth at the correct radius. I had an old microscope table, so I mounted a dremel tool to it, built a swivel mount and an adjustable angle neck table, and came up with what you see below. It takes a while to cut a compound heel joint for a flange/ pot, but it works great! THANKS beegee FOR THE IDEA!






Here is a jig that I made to make, basic, simple heel cuts, as used on my mini banjos. Neck angle is set by adjusting the table angle. I use a dremel tool to cut clearances for the tension hoop and flange.



BNJOMAKR

BNJOMAKR - Posted - 09/17/2009:  15:35:56


Sorry for the small pictures... I know what I did wrong. WE NEWBIES WILL EVENTUALLY LEARN! The same pictures (larger) are on my photo album.

BNJOMAKR

Helix - Posted - 09/18/2009:  04:28:47


I always like the solution to the swing arm problem, I've seen some manufacturers that use the oscillating drums, but I prefer a stationary drum. Elegant on your part.

Someone GAVE me a 48" Craftsman lathe, so I tilted it on its side, and now use a 50grit sanding drum I made. I like the gravity feed





(_)===='===::}


Edited by - Helix on 09/18/2009 04:35:24

mike gregory - Posted - 09/18/2009:  04:35:02


Gravity feed has the advantages of
A: Being consistent, and
B. When gravity stops working, there will be few, if any, people around wanting banjos.

=):{ )
Mike Gregory, Banjo Maker Infraordinaire
When I say my instruments are as good as anything Gibson or Martin ever made,
I mean MEL Gibson and DEAN Martin!


My banjos can be seen on my own website
http://littlebanjos.lunare.net

See me & my SQUARED EEL banjo on the Y'all tube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97EfvhFgRBY

Mike Greylak - Posted - 09/18/2009:  04:54:20


Mike Gregory with a real answer I expected this:



rudy - Posted - 09/18/2009:  05:26:05


Sanding heel profile:


Cutting step for tension band / head bead:


Larger photos and additional information at Myhangout photos.

Visit my website for assorted banjo construction information:
http://www.bluestemstrings.com/page...onTips1.html


Edited by - rudy on 09/18/2009 05:28:36

Dan Pennington - Posted - 09/18/2009:  05:46:16


Here's my heel sander rig that uses my lathe. It cuts the heel and the tension ring clearance at the same time.
The sanding drum is a stack of mdf circles with strips of sander belt clamped on.
The neck is fed to the sander by the cross slide table that the neck jig is bolted to.



Dan in Minneapolis


I cut it three times and it's still too short.


Edited by - Dan Pennington on 09/18/2009 05:48:43

bordertownbrown - Posted - 09/18/2009:  06:20:35


My set up uses the table saw, I am building with 10" rims so a standard 10" blade is perfect but would also work quite well with an 11" rim. First I cut a 3 degree angle on the end of the neck blank, this will rest on the table as it passes over the blade. The jig that holds the neck is also built at a 3 degree angle and the neck is indexed to the jig by three brass pins using the slot cut for the truss rod. The cut is made by sliding the jig and the neck across the saw blade, set slightly off center to give the proper right hand cant to the neck. This first cut is completed in a single pass and fits perfectly to the rim. Next I raise the saw blade enough to accommodate the tension hoop, the fence on which the jig slides must also be adjusted about 1/32" toward the front of the saw as the blade does not rise on true center. This operation can be completed at any point before the fingerboard is attached as it is aligned only by the cut at the heel and the slot for the truss rod. After attaching the fingerboard, I use a Robo-sander and a jig to trim its end to within 1/16" and the final fitting is done by hand

I also use the truss rod slot to index a template to shape the top profile of the neck and to bore the dowel stick hole.



Richard Brown



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